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Re: I'm New Here...First truly old car and first Packard
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Not too shy to talk
 
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So there is a lot of "stuff" in the paint. Almost looks like dried wax, or something that spilled and dried on it. That was the main reason I wanted to go to town on it....you are thinking bad idea? Also, maybe a dumb question, but are there supposed to be one or two hood props? It seems awkward if you put it down on the opposite you need it next time!
Posted on: 3/20 8:26
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Re: I'm New Here...First truly old car and first Packard
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Home away from home
 
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Post some pics of the paint problems.
Posted on: 3/20 9:25
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'55 400. Needs aesthetic parts put back on, and electrical system sorted.
'55 Clipper Deluxe. Engine is stuck-ish. |
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Re: I'm New Here...First truly old car and first Packard
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Home away from home
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So, he had new wheel cylinders and flex lines installed when he bought the car five years ago, and then didn't drive it after that (which makes zero sense to me but so be it). Thoughts on that? I might have to rebuild the master cyl though. I see signs of weeping there. Five years is a long time of disuse which is why I said to do it again. Too much at stake to not take the precaution! Brakes should be pressure-flushed annually and it is my guess that wasn’t done during the five years during which time the fluid could have started to deteriorate or even crystalize. Not the case with synthetic fluid but if using that, getting kits and a brake light switch that are compatible is important, not to mention a thorough flushing of the system using mineral spirits (I believe) to remove all traces of the old fluid.
Posted on: 3/20 11:19
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Re: I'm New Here...First truly old car and first Packard
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Home away from home
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Should be a hood prop on each side to facilitate working on engine. Make sure to lock the opposite side from the one you're opening or catastrophe.
On paint, be gentle. Tear the labels from 100% cotton terry cloth bath towels since they're polyester and will scratch paint. If you have water spots or other stains, go easy with the absolute minimal amount of cleaner, light polish by hand. Be careful or you'll wind up exposing primer. If you can't remove the blemishes you mention, just wax and rewax, rub everything 'til it gleams. Having an original car is priceless. Anyone can repaint a car. Go easy on the chrome. Nothing coarser than quadruple 0000 steel wool or copper wool if you can find it, perhaps Ace. Then keep it thoroughly waxed. Don't be cowed by "restored" cars. Most are of them are nightmares and never have that solid factory feel. Check head and manifold torque engine warm with accurate torque wrench. Do not overdo. You want the manifold secure but able to expand and contract. Don't forget the manifold heat control valve. It should be free, the weight all the way up snug when engine cold. Try to work some graphite powder mixed with kerosene into both ends. Anything else will only burn off. Drive car. Don't worry. See you have a set of radials. Good move.
Posted on: 3/20 14:06
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Re: I'm New Here...First truly old car and first Packard
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Forum Ambassador
 
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Also, maybe a dumb question, but are there supposed to be one or two hood props? It seems awkward if you put it down on the opposite you need it next time! There was only the one prop as standard and you are correct in that the single prop is a pain to use at times. Since you need to lower one side of the hood and lock it before you unlock and raise the other side it suffices even though it is a long reach to grab and swing it over. Organized people think ahead and park it to the other side if they know they will be working on both sides but that is not me. Having said that, many, myself included, have bought an extra prop bar in order to have both sides covered. Depending on the condition of the support bolt and nut it may just slip on but if not, you may need to have a helper hold the bolt head on the inside under the dash to keep it from turning as you loosen or remove the nut and spring to mount another prop along with the original. Motor City Packards region of PAC sells reproduction props.  If you have a helper another option if you are going to continually be changing sides is to unlock both sides and have the helper assist in lifting the entire hood off the car and set it aside. Just take care wherever you place it that something falling or a sudden burst of wind can't cause damage.
Posted on: 3/20 14:36
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Howard
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Re: I'm New Here...First truly old car and first Packard
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Not too shy to talk
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I have the car at my marina until I can comfortably drive it home. I'll send pics next week!
Posted on: 3/20 15:23
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Re: I'm New Here...First truly old car and first Packard
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Not too shy to talk
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I think this car was resprayed once, but it is admittedly hard to tell, and if it was, it was a LONG time ago. Certain spots look added on, but others it looks original. Either way, in my mind, a 50+ year old respray qualifies as (super close to) original. Great advice on the manifold torque specs. I do have a leak coming from there, so hopefully that fixes it!
Posted on: 3/20 15:49
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Re: I'm New Here...First truly old car and first Packard
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Not too shy to talk
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That is a good point. I really hate doing brakes...there is a lot on a car I have zero issue doing, but for some reason I've never gotten over the brake hump. Is this something a general mechanic should be able to do, or should I go to an older car specialist? I'll check the brake fluid and cylinders for condition too.
Posted on: 3/20 15:51
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Re: I'm New Here...First truly old car and first Packard
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Home away from home
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Duck soup. Pick up isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, 90% or better at any drugstore, or denatured alcohol at Ace, etc., flush the brake system until only clear, clean alcohol emerges. Blow out all lines with compressed air. Even a small home compressor like you'd use for bike tires, balls, pool floats strong enough.
Regardless brand, all DOT 5 silicone brake fluid is made by Dow Corning, so whoever has the lowest price. You'll never have to replace it. I know a fellow w/ '40 120 conv., '40 180 Darrin, '42 160 drophead, all three have the same DOT 5 since the 1980s, still looks new. The USPS fleet uses nothing but, as has for decades arctic military posts. The only thing you'll ever have to do is adjust your brakes once in a blue moon, and that dear little if you anticipate stops, use engine braking. Caramba. 1925 Cole had self-adjusting brakes, as did, today's version, 1946 Studebaker. But by the late '40s, Packard was increasingly phoning in their cars, focused on their less hassle, more lucrative govt. and jet engine contracts, living on a no longer deserved reputation, following GM, not a leader in anything since the 1920s, unless you count outside sourced things like air conditioning and Torsion Level. Our Wagner brakes are good, but unremarkable. Indiana-built Crosley had four-wheel disc brakes for 1949, Chrysler Imperial that year had a disc/drum combination through 1953, not true discs, like the '55 Austin-Healey 100S on all four wheels, followed by Jensen's Model 541 the next year. Drum brakes can stop you as fast as discs, just not repeatedly.
Posted on: 3/20 19:11
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