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My 1954 Clipper Super Touring Sedan #5462-5901 (Chassis #5411) we determined in an earlier post has the 1953 Clipper brakes with 12" drums. I was hoping one of the knowledgeable Packard owners could straighten out a conflict I'm seeing regarding positioning of the shoes. There are "primary" and "secondary" shoes. According to a booklet on brakes (which I downloaded from this site) under "Bendix" brakes it shows a diagram of the brakes. The primary shoe has the shorter brake shoe material, the secondary the longer amount of material. It shows the primary shoe as being the "front" shoe during "forward drum rotation." The booklet goes on further to say, "Irrespective of the position in which the brake assembly is mounted on the axle, the Primary or Forward Shoe is always the one "ahead" of the anchor in the direction of forward rotation of the drum." That tells me that whether you are looking at the car on the left side or right side the primary shoe (the one with less braking material) is the one in front. This is the way the old brakes shoes were mounted when I began the brake job. In my 1954 Packard manual it seems to contradict that. It cites the "adjusting screw nut" for reference as follows, "On the left wheel brakes the adjusting screw nut is toward the secondary shoe. On the right wheel brakes the adjusting screw nut is toward the primary shoe." On this car on the left side the adjusting screw (star wheel) is oriented toward the front of the car. On the right side the adjusting screw is oriented toward the rear. Following the directive of the shop manual that makes the secondary shoe the front shoe on the left side and right side whereas Bendix says the primary shoe is the front shoe. Maybe it's another case of the 1954 manual being irrelevant because I have 1953 brakes. I sure am confused or "challenged!"
(Incidentally Northwestern Auto Supply in Grand Rapids, MI was a great source for relined shoes. They were even riveted. Shoes for all four corners were $120.)

On a related topic do one of you know the procedure for repacking the rear wheel bearings?

Don't let the position of the star wheel adjustment confuse you, on Bendix self-energizing brakes such as you have the primary (shorter lining) always goes forward. It cams or jams the secondary (rear, longer) lining into the drum with a bit of a mechanically amplified force for more braking power.

Re wheel bearings, remove, clean in kerosene or charcoal lighter fluid, generally it is recommended NOT to use gasoline. Inspect each roller for pits or other signs of wear, also inspect the race for galling or signs of wear. If all is well, get a tub or wheel bearing grease - the modern red or blue stuff for disc brake cars is just fine. If you don't have the little bearing packing tool, just put some gobs of grease on your fingers and work into the cavity between the rollers. Some folks put the grease into the palm of their hand and "slap" the bearing into it - either way the object is to fill the space in and around each roller with grease, and then a bit of a additional film on the outside around the rollers. You might also want to remove the old grease from inside the hub. Many of us put a small amount of additional grease inside the hub between the inner and outer bearings and it's probably a good idea but don't overdo it. After the outer bearing is installed and the retainer and nut installed, I often take one more finger tip of grease and push it in around the bearing just for good measure.

It's a good practice when tightening the wheel bearing retaining nut to overtighten slightly (maybe 15 lb-feet or so) to make sure the bearing is seated. Then back off and make the final adjustment. Most of us old timers do it by feel; Packards spec in later years was 4 lb-feet, and back off to the first cotter pin hole.

I'm sure others will their own techniques.

The star-wheel adjuster position is switching from left side to right side of the car has to do with the fact that the backing plates are the same left to right (single part number). Since the star portion of the adjuster is static (doesnt move side to side), it has to line up with the hole in the backing plate. So when the backing plate is on the left side of the car, the adjuster hole is towards the secondary shoe, so the star portion has to be installed towards the secondary to line up with the hole.

On the right side, the same backing plate now has the hole closer to the Primary shoe, so the star-portion of the adjuster has to be closer to the Primary shoe to line up with the hole.

The adjuster simple expands and contracts based on how the star portion is turned. It doesn't matter which way it goes it from the braking operational standpoint. But it does mater so it lines up with the hole in the backing plate so you can reach the adjuster.

Gentlemen, Thank you both for the quick and thorough reply. It's good to have confirmation that the primary shoe is forward. Thanks too for the tips on wheel bearings. I had no trouble accessing the the front inner and outer wheel bearings but my puzzle is the rear wheel bearings. My understanding is they are to be greased every 30,000 miles. With the rear brake drums off and shoes removed it easy to see the bearings but does one have to do some axle disassembly to access them to repack with grease? Or is there some way to force grease into the rear bearings without disassembly?
Thanks,
Steve

Steve,

You have to remove the drum and the backing plate to access the the wheel bearing. Take a look at my project blog for pictures on this subject.

Thanks OD and Kev,
I have wondered the same thing after reading shop manuals. The 'primary' and 'secondary' explanation as well as the extra mechanical force going to the rear (secondary) shoe was helpful info.

Good question Steve! I have guessed at an answer several times (correctly) w/o knowing why.

Happy Braking,
DanL

Big Kev - Thanks for the tip to check your blog. I have cruised it some before but after reading about 60% of it today I am amazed at how much helpful info is there. Thanks for such a concise chronicle of your restoration. I found everything I needed there to proceed with repacking the rear wheel bearings. (If only it was as easy as doing front wheel bearings.)

The biggest recommendation I can give you is to wear gloves when you pull the axel. That old diff fluid smells horrible, and it takes forever to get that smell off of your hands!

Also you will want to inspect the inner seal to make sure it's in good shape. You don't want the diff fluid to break down the grease on the bearing. Better to check and/or replace it while have it apart then have to go back in and do it again.