Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Have a Caribbean 1955 question on brakes!!
How do you pull the rear breake drums off the rear axel?
It look the drum is rivetted in and i wonder if i have to cut the rivetts in order to take it off or if a special tool is requires (ic a pully!!? )
any adivese on that??
Thanks
Walter

1955 Packards and earlier require a very heavy-duty puller.
They do NOT require any type of rivet cutter. You may be able to borrow or rent one. Picture attached.

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Walt,

Do you have a service manual? There is one on this website.


https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/servicemanual5556/Sect15_RearAxle.pdf


Another picture of the tool.

https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL23NO10.pdf


Hope this helps.

You need a tapered axle drum pulled that attaches to the lug bolts. Any other type of puller may damage the drum.

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thanks for the information,
Waler

Got the tools and tried real hard to get the rear brake drum off. I even use a heavy hammer to tighten up the pull. No movement at all..
anybody has any ideas??

Walt,

Time can be a big factor in this process as pressure is maintained through the puller. First make sure you keep the nut on the end of the axle, just enough to protect the thread and to keep the drum from flying off when it releases it's death grip. Then keep tightening the puller over the course of a couple of days. If it still doesn't release judicious use of heat to the hub, which contains the taper end of the axle, should do the job. More pounding of the dogbone handle and some blows to the end of the handle will also help.

I've never been able to get a rear drum off just by hammering on the puller. Here's what I did to get it off. The jack supports the puller while leverage is applied with a long breaker bar. The rebar against the ground locks it in place. Also, make sure you keep the nut on the drum on loose because when it lets go, it will fly across the garage! Click on pic for larger version.

Tapers (of ANY application) are released by IMPACT. The puller PRESSURE just makes it easier and faster and convenient. In the case of the rear drums on tapers there is noway (without a special fixture, in this case the puller) to apply any shock/impact to the taper.

SO, apply pressure to the puller, use a hammer and strike the END of the big bolt head OF THE PULLER directly parallel and directly inline with the axle shaft.

i.e. ALTERNATELY strike the puller wing to TIGHTEN the puller while striking the END of the puller big bolt.

Again ANY taper application regardless any make model year, requires IMPACT to release it.


Some concern mite exist about strikeing it so hard if fear of bearing or other internal damage. IF that was true then WHILE DRIVEING THE CAR going into a hard turn at 70 mph would also damage any such parts. So it becomes a moot point.

Look at the end of the big bolt of the puller. OR at least any such puller that was used in service more than just time or two in it's history. Most will show CONSPICUOUS evidence of having been struck with a 2 pound hammer OR have a heavy 3 or 4 pound SLIDE hammer weight AS PART OF the tool.

I'm going to ask a couple of obvious questions just to make sure nothing was overlooked:

1) Did you remember to release the parking brake?

2) You may need to back off the shoes a little bit with the star adjusted as they should be catching.

3) You loosened the axle nut so it is level with the end of the axle? This gives the drum room to "pop" but not fly across the room when it does so.

The act of smacking the "DogBone" with a large hammer both tightens the puller, and gives it the jar it needs to pop it. Just keep hitting it, it will eventually pop. I just don't believe that Packard (or Chrysler) dealerships would have to keep a customers car overnight waiting for a drum to pop on it's own from pressure alone. They just kept hitting it, and trust me, it takes more pressure than you think. They were torqued down to 200-250ft/lbs on installation.