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'56 Patrician Bendix Steering Ram
#1
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John Payne
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G'day Guys, I'm now heading down to the other end of the car. Mine has Bendix power steering and the ram is leaking, forcing me to use a drip tray in the garage. Has anyone rebuilt one of these and if so, is it a job for a professional or could a home mechanic do the job? I actually have a spare ram and have a seal kit that I bought from Merrett, and would like to have the spare rebuilt and then do a change-over. Somebody once told me that the top of the ram would have to be cut off and welded back on after the new seals are fitted - is this right? I would have thought the heat from welding would destroy the seals. Anyway, I'm not game to remove the circlip from the top of the ram to see what comes out just in case I stuff something up. Regards, John

PS - does anyone know of a full power steering box that is a direct bolt in replacement for the original? That is, the bolt holes line up and the steering column can be matched. I appreciate there would be other component issues to address as well (eg, drag link) but I'm sure that could be sorted if a box were available. JP

Posted on: 2012/6/27 0:53
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Re: '56 Patrician Bendix Steering Ram
#2
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Ross
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Nothing to cut, and in fact no need to even remove the thing from the car. Undo the rod end from the frame and clean it well. Pull out the c-clip in the end of the ram and pick and cajole all of the little bits out. Replace with new bits and put it all back. You will probably want new rubber grommets where it attaches to the frame--if they are sloppy the steering will feel sloppy. I cut them from sheet rubber stock.

Don't know of any modern gear that would go in nicely.

Posted on: 2012/6/27 6:12
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Re: '56 Patrician Bendix Steering Ram
#3
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R H
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Which unit is better.

Bendix or Monroe?

Posted on: 2012/6/27 7:42
Riki
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Re: '56 Patrician Bendix Steering Ram
#4
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Owen_Dyneto
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That's sort of like asking which generator or starter motor is better, Delco or Autolite. I don't know that one is necessarily any better than the other, just different. The Monroe is a bit simplier.

Posted on: 2012/6/27 8:35
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Re: '56 Patrician Bendix Steering Ram
#5
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HH56
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I think many prefer the Monroe because of the simplicity. Less linkage and fewer hoses and components. As to better, probably the feel would be entirely subjective since they both do the job. If you do change or swap, make sure to get the proper pump with the particular unit you decide on.

Posted on: 2012/6/27 8:38
Howard
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Re: '56 Patrician Bendix Steering Ram
#6
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R H
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ok.

delco. or
autolight .

Posted on: 2012/6/27 8:55
Riki
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Re: '56 Patrician Bendix Steering Ram
#7
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Randy Berger
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I believe the only difference between the Monroe pump and the Bendix pump is the orifice GRP 15.844 #474138. The orifice raises the pressure coming from the pump.

Posted on: 2012/6/27 9:24
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Re: '56 Patrician Bendix Steering Ram
#8
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Owen_Dyneto
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Numbers from the Service Counselor are:

Bendix: 550 - 800 psi
Monroe: 650 - 900 psi

Monroe units should have the # "900" stamped on the pressure hose adapter fitting on the pump.

Posted on: 2012/6/27 10:15
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Re: '56 Patrician Bendix Steering Ram
#9
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R H
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Ross. what thickness rubber? 3/4"?...and the diameter...


thanks.......

rik

Posted on: 2012/6/27 11:56
Riki
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Re: '56 Patrician Bendix Steering Ram
#10
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BH
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Allow me to expand upon Ross' approach to seal replacement.

In servicing the Bendix power steering cylinder on-car, three of the four parts that make up the seal kit - illustrated in SC Vol. 30, No. 8 (p. 32) - may be dislodged (once the snap ring is removed) by simply pulling the piston rod outward from the cylinder. However, you might need to use a hooked tool on the outer lip of the dust seal to walk it out of the bore.

Then, to remove the critical seal that's deeply seated in the cavity WITHOUT damage to the piston or bore, which would result in a future leak, support the cylinder with a strap. Start the engine, turn the steering wheel to its full left stop, and hydraulic pressure will simply nudge the seal out. Although fluid won't come gushing out the end of the cylinder like a geyser, you should have something on the floor to catch the little bit that will be expelled.

Be sure to inspect the surface of the piston/rod for any pitting that would quickly tear up new seals. I've been lucky enough to dress mine up for reuse with no leaks. However, if that part requires replacement, then the cylinder will have to be removed, the end cut-off, and then re-welded - not something most would want to attempt at home.

Posted on: 2012/6/27 14:43
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