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So I took my '53 Clipper out for a good long drive for the first time really since the motor was put in... It would cut out and surge under hard acceleration, especially is 3rd (direct, OD off) up around 50mph. I took it home and took the carb apart and found the little brass mesh filter was clogged, so I cleaned everything out really good and tried again. This time she runs perfectly smooth at speed (55mph+/-) but under hard acceleration it sputters a little and backfires once or twice. I then replaced the fuel filters and it got a little better. Now when I shift into third, around 40 mph, or even into 2nd at around 25 mph (I don't know what RPM, it sounds right though) and gun it, it will sputter and pop a little until it reaches a certain rpm and then even out and pull hard like it should.

What else should I check? Timing is set to 6 degrees, dwell is set to 30, new plugs (I'll check the number in the morning), NOS Sears solid copper plug wires.... It seems like its still not getting all the fuel it wants... The engine is from a '53 Cavaleir, maybe I should be running a 4bbl instead of my 928S?? Has anybody beefed up one of these WGDs?

Dear Fory:

Sounds like classic ignition misfire under load due to weak spark.

Get a KD spark tester from NAPA. You should have at least 20k cranking spark.

fory, I had a similar problem with my 1948 and a new ignition condenser cured the problem. It was a easy and inexpensive fix. Packardtaximan

Today after getting my OD working I robbed the plug wires from the Buick engine in my garage just to see what would happen.. I idles a little smoother, but still is very choppy under acceleration. Has anybody noticed any difference running modern suppression-type silicone core wires versus solid copper core? Maybe I should make a trip down to SoCal Speed Shop this weekend and pick up some nice wires... they even have the old Rajah connectors.... I'll clean up the points tomorrow too. I replace the whole ignition system (points, condenser, cap, rotor, coil, plugs, NOS solid core wires) when I first got the car on the road three years ago, and swapped everything over to the motor thats in it now. Theres maybe 5,000 miles on the ignition, maybe more.. Not enough time in a day though, off to school I go! I'll post back with results after giving everything a once-over tomorrow.

Just went and did a quick test with my dwell meter... dwell is currently set at 38*, timing is 6* at 600rpm. I'll test the vac. advance tomorrow ass well.... I don't know what the dwell should be, but it seems pretty high. I was taught to somewhere around 30* is good when you don't know specs...

If you have the stock Delco dist used on most 53's, point gap should be .016 and dwell 31 degrees. They used Autolite on senior models and that gap was .017 and dwell of 27 degrees in 53. Looks like someting around 30 is better than what you have.

Right on! I have the Delco unit. I'll cose the gap up a little tomorrow.. Actually I should take 'em out and file em to be sure, and then set the gap and check dwell again. I talked to my teacher about it, he says using solid copper wire will make a huge difference over silicone core suppression type. He also recomended stopping by the local VW shop and seeing what they have in the way of hi-po 6volt ignition stuff... I never thought about it, but that makes sense considering they're 6v and have a huge aftermarket.

fory, you will want to OPEN up the gap a little, not close it. More gap less dwell, less gap more dwell. I would go by the gap not the dwell. Then reset the timing and idle. Good luck.

(o{}o)

Set the points to .016" (which incidentally put my dwell at 28* ) and set the timing at 6*btdc.. also checked the plug gap, set them all to .035" (couldn't remember the spec, so I figure thats a pretty generic setting). The number 1 and number 4 plugs were completely closed, all the others were fine, with the exception of number 8 which was oil-fouled but with the same gap.. What would have caused two of the plugs to close up? Looking down the hole I didn't see any signs of a valve hitting.....

Anyways, it runs a lot better now. still not perfect, but a LOT better. I'm picking up some copper non-suppression wires and new plugs Saturday. For plugs I'm switching from Autolite 86 (resistor type) to Champion J8C (non-resistor, also was the stock plug used from what I've read) or Autolite 295 (non-resistor) depending on whats a better deal..

I suggest you do check the specs, 0.035" plug gap sounds way to large, without looking it up I suspect 0.025 - 0,028 is probably correct.