Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

You just need to figure out what the travel length is compared to the original hydraulic cylinder, and then the required Ft Lbs of force needed to select the correct actuator.

The main thing to remember is, are these actuators 6V + ground?

You could use a step up transformer if needed as Howard suggested. But they may make these in different voltages. Polarity is typically not an issue with these as they work similar to a power antenna, 3 wire. They expand or contract based on switched polarity. Many of them have internal limit switches.

Quote:

Not too sure about the switches. The existing switches don't flip polarity back and forth. They just redirect the negative current from one pole to another to activate the hydraulic valve and appropriate solenoid for the pump motor (I think). I am giving this potential solution some serious thought. I am thinking about getting just one and seeing what I can do with installing it on a rear passenger door as a test case.

There's a short video on the website showing the up/down rocker switch they sell and how it's wired up Link.

As BigKev pointed out, I need to weigh a window assembly, i.e., find the force in pounds needed to lift it using the existing mechanism with the tension spring removed (I am assuming that the spring would be superfluous with this type of lifter). Then I need to measure the total up/down travel needed for the window to fully open and close.

I guess the first thing to do is to find out if there are any 6 Volt models (I doubt it).

Edit: sent an e-mail with the 6 volt question. Will advise.
Edit2: Just remembered, there is no factory wiring in the doors at all as the controlling electro-hydraulic valves are located outside the door in adjacent body panels. So... some pretty extensive re-wiring is probably going to be required.

Quote: You may be right but looking at the schematic, while I do see the pre war switches are different, it looks as if they might work. Power comes in on terminal 1 & pushing one direction looks like term 2 energizes & causes pump solenoid to come in for one direction. Appears pushing the other direction causes 4 to energize the other solenoid. I would think those might work for the actuator by operating relays to switch polarity. Terminal 3 must come in for both as it just operates the cylinder valve so would no longer be used..

EDIT: Didn't realize no wiring in doors, so yes that is a bit more of project. Could the wires be run in a hose similar to what must be going to cylinder and have it look stock? Also, not sure I would totally eliminate the spring but maybe change to a much lighter one. Guess determining if needed would depend on whether anything would vibrate if no tension applied.

Howard hiding the wiring in the mock hydraulic lines is exactly what I plan on doing on my '54. I ended up sourcing a complete set of '56 4-door power window switches to use as the '54 and prior switches are super expensive for some reason. Since I switched the car to 12 volt, I am just going to use a modern aftermarket power window setup, and remove the existing manual window assemblies.

I also bought a '56 under dash "Electro-Lock" button switch to control the power lock solenoids. I will tie that all together with the alarm to control everything. So a little modern convenience using all Packard switches and controls, but with all the modern bits hidden from view under the dash, and it the doors.

If you decide to do this, could you post some detailed photos and instructions during your process?
Thanks.

Would these step up transformers have enough amperage to handle the power demands? What if all 4 windows were used at once, that's something to consider.

I still think it would be better to either fix the original system, or convert it to 12v and be done with it.

Quote:

That is a big consideration and the answer is no, I don't think so. That's why on the other thread I suggested a look into that 6 to 12v inverter you found at Newport Engineering for the wiper motors. That is rated 5 amp and would handle 1 door, possibly 2, IF the max draw of the actuators that probably would be used is correct as stated on the website--roughly 3amp. Suggested if doing it that way, 1 per door would be needed. Of course, that adds an extra $150 per window. It would eliminate the need for a full conversion and could be isolated from rest of electrics. While a full conversion has it's merits, the poster has requested a 6v solution and I can understand why they may choose not to go the full route.

Before committing to that approach though, would still like confirmation that the inverters would work directly with motors. That inverter website is just a bit ambiguous and never directly states they will--even though sold in the wiper accessories section. Would like to know a bit more about any limits on the "heavy load" output since other inverter sites state specifically theirs are not for use with motors.

I think the best way if completely converting all windows would be to have a small battery as O_D mentioned others have done. The associated components could be hidden, protected, disguised -- maybe in the space the existing pump is located. Use an inverter and a circuit to keep the battery charged. Doing it that way, would eliminate any question, give some reserve, and could still be isolated from rest of car.

Oops, Sorry folks for the long delay in responding to the 6 volt Chrysler conversion question.

A little history: The car had been previously converted to bombay door lifts from a B-52 Stratobomber. They were a disaster.

It just happened that there was a junk 120 and a junk 52 Imperial in the back yard. The Chrysler was sold to the Packard owner.

For the front, I took the motor unit from the Chrysler and drilled out the crank pinion from the 120 regulator. The Chrysler unit was a total bolt in, as was the 120 regulator. And they worked beautifully.

The back windows were a problem because the door glass would not clear the motor. Fortunately, they had a bunch of division regulators from Rollson, Brewster, or somebody, and these were used as remote actuators for the rear door glass.

Finally, the Chrysler did not have five electric windows and I left for fall term while a real old time restorer who worked for Pre-Turnquist Hibernia (Walter - deceased) got something working for the division. I never saw it work.