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Great job so far Mike! It must have felt really good to get the body back on the frame. I'm getting close to putting my engine back in, so that will be a big day for me. I just ordered clamps too. I'm getting them from Dennis Carpenter, who sells reproduction Ford parts. They were fairly cheap, so I hope they are decent quality. $5 per clamp from the Packard dealers wasn't in the budget, but I really didn't want to put the modern worm drive clamps on the car. I'm having similar issues trying to figure out where things go. No matter how many photos you take, there's always a few items that are hidden from view or just outside the edges of the picture.


Jeff

Mike - I used a Purolator A30057 air filter element. Yours may be different, but this is a good place to start. I went through the filter elements at a local auto supply store until I found one that would fit. I changed to the modern pleated paper type from the oil bath type for ease of maintenance convenience, not necessarily better filtration.

(o{}o)

Thanks Ross, Hank, Jeff and JW. I'll grudgingly look into bracing the radiator support back to original....I guess in the long run it will be better in keeping the front end in one place. You are all a good influence on my packard! One of these days I'll get to the airfilter, but I am trying to work from the inside out, and since the airfilter is easy to take on and off, it will probably get done later on.
It was a good feeling to get the firewall painted and the body on the frame. It is actually strange becasue the project looks so different all of a sudden. Like when your wife or girlfriend get's a new hairstyle. Takes some time to get used to the new look, but I like it, and don't want to go back!
I ordered a pack of 25 clamps from retro-motive on ebay. I'll pick them up in November when I am in NYC and Pittsburgh for a visit to see family. Hope to get some work done this weekend... We'll see. Ignition cables from summit and coil + mount are on the list to do soon.
Will blast and paint that hanger for the heater hose, and try to find a 'shrink tube isolation' big enough to fit over it...That might be tricky to find.

If you can't find one big enough, use plastidip.

Jeff - One of the rod braces on my 47 Clipper's radiator cradle had been cut off sometime in its past. It was probably removed to help remove the radiator. I believe the radiator and cradle are designed to be removed together. I bought a piece of rod and welded it in place. I wanted a rigid cradle so the newly cored radiator would not have problems from the cradle flexing.

(o{}o)

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Not that it helps you in Germany, but I have bought large shrink tubing at Harbor Freight that has worked perfectly to replace the rubber on those thin metal clamps/holders. That is how I fixed all of mine. Media blast, paint black, and apply shrink tubing.

Mike, your source for shrink tubings (Schrumpfschlauch, Schrumpfschl?uche) in Germany is Conrad Elektronik.

==> online

==> on site

I don't know why anyone would want to change the air filter. It takes only a few minutes every 2 to 5 years to service it. Cost is 1/3 liter of 50 motor oil and half a gallon of solvent (which you can reuse for parts cleaning).

The permanent filter was an expensive item, the paper filter was a cheap substitute.

OK, got some work done today. (Winter tires installed on one daily driver first) A few more things attached to the firewall, and sparkplug wires cut and crimped. The wires are the generic packard supression core from summit. They should work well with my ignighter and chrome igntion coil. I couldn't resist a little bit of chrome! Am happy with the way the plug wires came out.
The radiator cradle is on the to do list. Have to get some 2mm steel and put a bend in it for strength...
Also put 0.6liters of 90W in the Overdrive, and then 0.95 liters in the transmission. The car sits so high right now that I was able to scoot under the car and get the oil in with no jack stands. Starting to feel like working on a car when I have to crawl under it!
I have most of the e brake mechanism installed but am missing the two springs. Anybody have these two parts for sale? Can't find it in the Max catalog...I also don't understand where 1.1045 is supposed to attach to. The other spring 1.1365 is used to pull the ratchet mechanism into the teeth of part 1.136.
That big spring in the picture was attached to the e brake somehow, but I don't think it is original.

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I have also been doing the same thing on the wire loom hooks with blast, paint and shrink tube just like Big Kev. I will stop by conrad next week, they're really close to where I work and see if they have big enough shrink tubing, otherwise I'll try the plasti dip.