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Hank, it was too obvious to not make a comment. Congratulations on scoring a dual-four manifold. That is the easy part, now come the carbs and linkage. Knowing you, it will somehow happen. You are a determined guy, and this is good. Take care.

(o{}o)

the plan is to run two 4gc 7007230 carbs, since I already have one and it should be easy to source one. I will custom make the linkage and split all the metal lines to go to both carbs, etc. this will double up on all my vacuum sources.


I'm not sure why, but whoever had this manifold over the years drilled a hole in the back for some reason. then put a pipe plug in it. its pretty well rusted in, so i'm just gonna leave it. I don't see any reason it would leak with that much corrosion on it. its on the back side so nobody will see it.

is it wise to assume I can reuse the metal manifold gaskets between the head and manifold? from what I understood they were one time use only.

today I cleaned up the passenger's door and fender for linseed. I used my sander with some 220 grit and got all the crap off the fender best I could. you can tell a big difference. the I sprayed them both and have them sitting to dry. should be a couple weeks or more and hopefully I will have at least one more decent weather day left in the year to spray clear coat on them.

I shaved the remaining sags and runs in the body today as well.

I temporarily mounted the driver's fender to just get it out of the way. I liked the view so I took a pic.

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Lookin Good Hank! Do you have any concerns with closing the hood when there is no support or hood latch in the front? I'm looking at doing my hood and trunklid next, and was a little worried that the hood might bend if closed with nothing in the front, or is your fender providing support.
-Mike

is it wise to assume I can reuse the metal manifold gaskets between the head and manifold?

Use new gaskets, either metal shim or composite.

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Hmmmm, don't think you need to duplicate the vacuum lines. One line for each function should be fine. Look at how the Caribbeans are plumbed. I offer this without any direct experience with multiple 4-barrel carbs. I agree, the plug in the back of the manifold should be fine as is. Do as O_D suggests, use new gaskets. The Clipper is coming together nicely, and I enjoy reading about and seeing the progress you are making.

(o{}o)

no concerns closing the hood. it is supported by the radiator at the front and there is a comforter over the radiator cushioning it. works fine.

the fender is just held on by one bolt for temporary mounting.

I think the linseed like lower temps cause its pretty much already dry. i was suprised by this actually, but i wont argue as my good weather days will be running out soon. i think i will beable to spray clear this saturday...supposed to be in the 70s then.

as to the plumbing for the carbs....this is how another Packardinfoer has it setup and it seems to work well for him. since i have never done this i'm going off the experience of another is all. i'm sure that i could just plug the holes in the front carb and run only to the back carb. i just figured it would look cool and function better doubling up.

i'll have to source some new metal gaskets, i'm not a big fan of the fiber ones.

This weekend i moved parts i was done with to the shed and moved from the shed to the garage all the stuff to keep me busy this winter, like trim, etc.

one thing i have to complain about....why did packard rivet the reverse light lenses onto the housing...i'm mean really!!

i'll have to source some new metal gaskets, i'm not a big fan of the fiber ones.

The composite gaskets like Best Gasket will work just fine for the intake on a V8, I know of many that have been in place for tens and tens of thousands of miles. The only place I've experienced failures on the composite gaskets is the exhaust manifold-to-block of the in-line 8s - I'm guessing the constant expansion and contraction of the manifold against the gaskets and block is too much for them and for that application I try hard to find the OEM style metal/metal sandwich gaskets with the little lip that inserts into the block. Other than that, composites are fine based on my experiences.

If it's any help, here's a few photos of the factory fuel line setup. 5/16 steel tubing. Napa has premade uncoated steel line in various lengths you could use as a starting point. The fittings can be obtained from places like this onehttp://fittingsandadapters.com/inflarfit.html

The choke tube might be the hardest. It is 1/4 inch and the 3 tubes are welded or brazed at the tee. A guy of your talents should be able to handle it.

Dist advance is off the side of back carb, power brake off rear. WS wiper vacuum comes off the rear of the front carb.

No hints on finding all the linkage pieces but here is what it looked like.

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thanks this is very informative. since i'll be running two of the same carbs, there will be extra ports that will need to be tapped off.

as for the chock tube...i was just goint to tee it off with a brass tee. not sure if that will be good or not, but easier then welding/soldering tubing.

it doesn't look like there would be enough space between the carbs to run another line for the brakes. that special tube that mounts on teh back that the rubber hose goes over...seems like it would be too long and hit the carb behind it.

i like this setup. wipers off the front....brakes and advance off rear. then plug the side of the front carb since that hole wont be used. and plug the hole in the splitter for the brakes.

also, as to tubing, i have plenty left over from doing the lines before.

Check me in the parts book to be sure but IIRC the only unique linkage piece is the one connecting the two carbs. The link from the pedal with the throttle pressure link is the same as with a single 4 bbl. If you just put the carbs in place and lay the throttle pedal link alongside, all the lengths and where the center connect is will be very obvious and the between-carbs link is a piece of cake to make. Just make sure you make a threaded end so the effective length can be adjusted - that's essential when you want to get the two carbs synchronized. There is a procedure in one of the Service Counselor (1955 if I recall) for synchronizing the carbs - it does work though it can be a bit fussy with multiple fine-tuning.