Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

First time Packard owner/first post. Recently bought a 37 1088 coupe - Love it...
However it has a Banjo wheel that (after driving 10 - 20 miles) now spins freely. Thank god it happened in parking lot. When I took off horn cap all I found was a Large spring, large broken black washer, horn cup w/three screws and the 1" nut on threaded shaft. Also some kind of black donut coil of electricians tape as an insulator in center.
Shouldn't there be a locking washer/cotter key or other device to hold steering wheel to shaft rather than relying on friction of 1" nut alone. cant fine any diagrams of what parts should be in there.

G'day 3window37,

By a strange co-incidence the same thing happened two Sundays ago to one on our Packard Club members here downunder when attending a Packard run to a winery. Here's an excerpt from a story I'm writing for our club magazine about the run where I mention the incident.

"Sunday morning Bill had firstly driven and parked his '49 Convertible Victoria at Sirromet winery. Then returned home, courtesy of a neighbour, to also bring his '37 120C Convertible Coupe to the event. All went well on the trip, the '37 running nicely with Bill getting up to 80 kph on the way. Then, when backing into his parking space, the steering wheel spun in his hands! Although the '37 returned home later that afternoon, albeit on the back of a truck, Bill was amazed yet thankful the steering failure hadn't happened on the road. On inspection the next day, rather than the steering column shaft shearing off just below the wheel as first suspected, a "serrated shim" had lost its grip on the steering wheel hub. Bills mate, who has an extensive machine shop, is making Bill a replacement which will NOT slip."

In another co-incidence, or is it d?j? vu all over again, I was the last link in a 2,000km delivery of a banjo wheel to another '37 Convertible Coupe owner, Geoff.

Attach file:

---

  (23.21 KB)


  (74.55 KB)


  (40.21 KB)

There is no decent drawing of the wheel that I have found. The only prewar view in the parts manual is this side illustration. The quality is poor so you really can't get a good idea of the internal construction. Packard did keep essentially the same arrangement thru 54 so here is a later illustration of the shaft showing the individual pieces. There were some detail variations in the wheel and horn ring arrangement in later years but the mounting is the same.

No lockwasher or cotter key is used, just the nut and the fact when the nut is tightened the steering wheel is forced down on the splined shaft. With your wheel coming off like that I would suspect someone just put the the nut on finger tight. If the nut is tightened properly, the wheel is so forcibly on the splines it requires a wheel puller to remove.

The electrical tape should be a sponge rubber piece mostly for antivibration. Not sure what the large broken black washer might be unless it is the insulator piece that supports the horn contact and keeps it from touching the steering shaft.

The large spring under the wheel holds a concave ring that is on the shaft and actually forms the bearing inner race. Make sure that ring is present and the bearing is intact so none of the ball bearings have escaped.

Attach file:

---

  (95.62 KB)


  (34.51 KB)

The issue described is somewhat uncommon, but not to be ignored. All owners of 35-38 Banjo's are to be aware of this issue. The problem is the banjo hub is pot metal and the splines are somewhat "weak" as a result. The steering shaft is steel, and not the problem. If the wheel is not installed carefully, or the splines not crisp to begin with due to whatever, and the nut not tightened properly (and by the way, the nut for the banjo wheel is different than the standard wheel), the result is as experienced. Not good.
I have, and have seen, several wheels that have been cut for a woodruff (?) key, a simple and safe effort, and definitely my recommendation if there is any question as to the condition of the splines/installation. A locktite type product may also be a good idea in this application, but be mindful of the next SOB that has to remove the wheel. Potmetal can be quite porous...

DAF

Oh, and by the way, the standard steering wheel was manufactured with a steel splined insert, not pot metal as the banjo's.....hmmmm....

PS - if there is a machine shop out there that can efficiently cut the tapered splines, I am willing to take on reproducing the 35-7 banjo wheel. Hub in either cast brass or leadalloy. I can get the hub CNC machined easily enough, just haven't found the shop to cut the tapered splines. Anybody?

Thanks for so much info so fast - you are all a credit to "Ask the man that owns one" Packard mantra.

I did find the diagram as posted and some lit talking about bearings. None present inside my steering wheel.
Nut was quite tight - used a large !/2" drive x 1" deep socket to loosen and then pulled banjo off by the might of my own upset hands...

Luckily I had the original steering wheel in trunk. Pushed it on by hand aligning splines and cinched her down with said socket, then drove very slowly home behind my brother's car w/ his flashers on.

Original wheel has small hole in base plate - did it utilize a retaining washer to lock in place.

Will send photos of what I have after this weekend when I tear into it again. Have a second 37 1088 with original steering wheel on it so I'll compare the two. (That is if I can figure out how to attach photos)

Now for deja vu or coincidences or what have you - I also happen to be a Jeff.

Might have solved one of my problems... (don't worry I have many) Yes, I hope photos are correct size etc.

Attach file:

---

  (87.01 KB)


  (87.84 KB)


  (123.45 KB)

For what it worth-a friend had same problem-the splines on the steering wheel had ben partially filled in when someone had worked on it