Re: 1954 Packard Clipper Super with Delco-Remy Distributor
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Forum Ambassador
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Steve, there is a range of condenser capacitances specific to a year and model. Yet the overall range is quite narrow and a condenser doesn't particularly care if the vehicle is Delco or AutoLite, 4, 6, 8 or 12 cylinders, or 6 or 12 volt.
Yes, the one you have may be the incorrect capacitance but it certainly wouldn't prevent the car from starting and running well. Yes, maybe you'll get 8,000 miles from a set of points instead of 10,000, but there certainly shouldn't be any great urgency to change it for the correct one and not enjoy the vehicle in the meantime.
Posted on: 2011/6/6 12:03
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Re: 1954 Packard Clipper Super with Delco-Remy Distributor
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Home away from home
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Thanks, Owen
I didn't know that either so I really appreciate your input. I am going to try and clean up the points and get someone to help me trouble shoot the coil while they crank the engine and I see if I can get any juice out of it. Do you know if there's any way I can test the coil on my own without having someone crank the engine to see if it is generating a spark?
Posted on: 2011/6/6 12:31
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Re: 1954 Packard Clipper Super with Delco-Remy Distributor
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Forum Ambassador
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Remove the wire from the distributor points outside terminal and touch or ground against the block. That is all the points are doing. With ign switch on, touching ground with the wire, high voltage lead from coil near the block, you should see the spark jump when you remove the wire from ground.
It should be a relatively decent spark but nothing like what you'd see on a modern car. If you did a lot of cranking and ran the battery down, there could be enough voltage drop from starter motor when cranking that the voltage to coil is low and spark is not good enough. A common problem with 6v systems having dirty connections or too small a battery cable.
Posted on: 2011/6/6 12:50
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Howard
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Re: 1954 Packard Clipper Super with Delco-Remy Distributor
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Forum Ambassador
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high voltage lead from coil near the block
"near the block" meaning about 1/4 inch or so. Though there are (were) special coil testing rigs, I've heard they aren't all that reliable. 99.999% of coil failures only manifest themselves when the coil is hot - even a failing coil will usually spark when at ambient temperatures. If you don't have one, buy yourself a point file and if the coil tests OK as HH56 has described, then run a point file across the points and try again.
Posted on: 2011/6/6 13:00
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