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I was sure I found a post on this subject but now can't find it. I need to know what terminals are supposed to be hot and when. Also is there a switch that needs to be turned on to activate the o.d. or just move the cable to the in position?

Thanks so much for any and all help.
Dave

Also is there a switch that needs to be turned on to activate the o.d. or just move the cable to the in position?

There is a switch under the dash as an integral part of the cable bracket assembly, pulling out or pushing in the cable knob activates/inactivates the switch.

For the R11 part of the power is thru the ign key. There is a lockout switch on the end of the OD knob and cable assy under the dash. If key is on, one side of that switch will then have power. If the knob is pushed in the other side of switch will also have power and will then supply power to one side of the coil in the relay box.

The governor provides the ground and that wire goes from the governor to one of the terminals on the set of contacts closest to the plunger end on the kickdown switch. The other terminal near the plunger continues on to the other side of relay coil. When the car reaches governed speed somewhere around 20 mph the governor will close its contacts to ground which will pass thru the kickdown switch and relay will energize.

The other power source for the OD comes directly from the battery thru a wire connected to the battery post on starter solenoid and supplies the fuse on the side of relay. When the relay closes that power supplies the OD solenoid which will try to pull in. When car reaches the governed speed the driver lifts his foot off the accelerator for a moment allowing the mechanical parts inside the OD to line up. The pawl will become unblocked so the solenoid can move it to complete the pull in. If all is well mechanically he car should then be in OD.

You can test the relay and solenoid with engine off and car stationary by grounding either of those terminals next to plunger at the kickdown sw or the wire connected to governor. With key on, knob in, when ground is provided the relay should click and there should be a click or clunk noise from the solenoid.

The lockout switch plunger is plastic and can wear to the point it doesn't move far enough to close the switch so one possible source of issue. Governor contacts can be dirty so no connection and in particular a bad connection in a small strip of metal between one of the rivets on the bakelite cover and a cover mounting screw. That strip of metal is the ground path and corrosion or a loose screw can cause issues.

If the governor has two wires coming off the cover, the OD wire is the one mounted in the open to a rivet sort of in the middle of cover. The other wire goes into a bumped out area which is probably filled with tar. That wire is for the EC and is just tucked away if the car does not have that option.

If all that checks OK and power is being supplied to the solenoid there is a set of contacts inside the solenoid that could be causing problems. Those were a wear item that needed to be periodically cleaned and dressed. IF they are not making a good connection the pull in coil in solenoid can't energize and the hold coil by itself cannot move the plunger.

For an R9 there is a considerable difference in electrical so none of these procedures will work in testing that unit.. The only common item is the governor connection.

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Man guys what a wealth of knowledge. I found where the switch goes on the cable but mine is missing!!! Are they available??

I will do the complete electrical check tomorrow.

Thanks again,
Dave

Max lists them and Kanter might have them too. Not cheap but I don't know of anything modern that will fit or function without some machine work.

The plunger travel is so minimal it takes a special switch. A micro switch might be adaptable with some machining for an adapter to thread in the hole and hold the switch. You could always use an ordinary toggle switch but you would have to mount that separately and then turn it on and push the knob.

I have some used switches for the OD cable that will work for you. please lit mr]e know. Dell

I have decided to just use a toggle switch under the dash. I will probably keep it in od all the time anyway. Thanks for the offer and help guys.
Dave

Dave,

Leaving it in OD all the time comes at a price of no engine braking effect. Usually OK for normal driving but, having drum brakes, long downhill driving necessitating frequent braking can soon lead to brake fade.

Just adding emphasis to Mal's comment about disengaging in hilly country. Those that do a lot of touring have probably all seen the consequences of not doing so, burned or scorched brakes, some fender damage from riding the guard rails trying to slow down, and worse. Those types of incidents are the major reason that "free wheeling" was discontinued by most who offered it within 1 year, Packard, Pierce-Arrow and others among them.

Bear with me guys as I have never owned an over drive vehicle. As I understand it, if the OD cable is pulled out and the lockout switch is turned off (toggle switch on mine) then the car is now just a 3 speed manual transmission. (Question) will it free wheel in this configuration? or only when the OD is engaged?

I have gotten the cable hooked up. replaced some wiring and should be able to do the electrical check tomorrow. If everything checks out I guess it would then be time to try it on the road.

I sure appreciate everyone's input, even though I am an old fart (66) I am still learning. The old Packard is going to be a challenge, but I have a smile on my face each time I get something accomplished.

Thanks,
Dave Beck