Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Hi!

From Sweden here, have a Packard Clipper Custom 1955 and my problem is that this is supposed to adjust automatically but now I have to do it manually from inside the car..

Here's a picture of the copper that's been broken right of the middle. Is there any way to repair it or buy a replacement?

Any info/tip would be most helpful!

Best Regards /Emelie

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That is a new type of failure--have not seen that one in 40+ years of looking at these things. I could send you a whole controller perhaps. Really don't want to try and remove that contact as it is swaged on.

Hi!

A whole new controller would be amazing, can you take a photo of it? My man have a friend who deals with carparts and has his own container so would ship through his address.

But let me know price and a picture of the controller.

//Emelie

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G'day Emelie(PennyClipper),
to PackardInfo, and I invite you to include your '55 Clipper Custom in the Packard Owner's Registry.

I don't have a new controller but I can clean and test an old one for you. There may be new ones around at one of the usual vendors if that is what you prefer.

I would solder it back .with a piece of copper over break.

Hi . Would you be willing to walk a novice how you would test one? I found one in the trunk when cleaning my car out. Apparently dad was trying to figure out why the torsion level system was not working

Most of the time the control switch failures are due to contacts inside the switch enclosure oxidizing and then failing to make a good connection to bring in another component.

The operation is easy to check but if the switch has never been apart there are 4 rivets to drill out so the box can be opened and the internal components viewed. Once the switch is checked and contacts cleaned the rivets are replaced with screws and nuts.

You can check the switch on a bench or in the car. If the switch was in the trunk then checking on the bench will be easier. Connect one terminal from a battery as ground to the switch case. Place a small jumper wire from the other battery post on the center (light green) terminal. If a 55 box, the connection will be an exposed screw terminal on the bottom. If a 56 box, the terminal is a push on bullet type connector inside the bottom weathertight enclosure.

Move the lever that connects to the torsion bar in one direction checking for spring tension at the same time to make the contact connection at (1) in the photo and schematic. You should see the bimetal arms start to move. In about 7-10 seconds a contact (2) at the end of the bimetal will touch another contact on the base and one of the relays will pull in. If it does, release the lever and let it go back to the center position. Move the lever the other direction and the same thing happens again except the bimetal will swing the other way and touch a different contact to bring in the other relay.

If all that happens then the switch is functioning but the contacts could definitely stand a cleaning anyway. GENTLY use a point burnisher and clean the contacts. Pay particular attention to the bimetal contacts as the heater and connecting wires are exposed or just stretched across open space and are very delicate and can be caught and damaged. The relay contacts also need a cleaning.

If the bimetal does not start moving then the contacts at 1 are suspect or a heater is burned out. If the bimetals move but the relays do not come in at the end of 7-10 second time frame the contacts at 2 are suspect. If a heater is burned out there is no repair other than find another stock switch or get one of the reworked solid state converted units from one of our vendors.

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Wow! Awesome! Thank you very much! I will give this a go

Sean

Thanks for the education! I tested both units, then cleaned the points and tested them again. 1 unit works perfectly, 7-8 seconds, both sides. The second unit.....1 side seems good, 7 seconds, the other side takes upwards of 25-30 seconds. I assume that means there is an issue with the 2nd unit? or can the points in location 2 be adjusted?