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When my ignition is turned on is it normal for the coil to get hot without the car running? Will it get hot when the car is running and cause issues?

If, when you turn the ignition switch on, the points happen to be in the closed position, then current will flow thru the coil and it will begin to warm. If the points just happen to be open, no current flows and the coil will stay at the ambient temperature.

Working coils generate heat so yes, when the car is running they can get quite warm.

Thanks so much...one other little thing...how can I test to ensure my coil is good? I have intermittent spark at my plugs

Coil testers are not always 100% reliable, the best test IMO is to substitute a known good coil and go for a drive. If you have an intermittent spark problem and haven't done it yet, before you condemn a coil, check the wire feed from the ignition switch for intermittent shorting. As cars age, it's a classic problem where coil feed wires are enclosed in a grounded metal shield.

Thanks again. I am new to the forum and not really sure how it works..lol..I just bought this baby and for the life of me can't get her started. Your information was very helpful though..

G'day paka40(Doug?),
to PackardInfo and I invite you to include your '40 Packard in the Packard Owner's Registry.

If you are in fact getting an intermittent short on the wire to the coil, you should see corresponding movement on the ammeter.

Do you have any kind of spark or is none present?

If the points have been closed long enough at one time that the coil is getting warm without the car starting and adding that heat the points could be oxidized. Even if they were not closed, if the car has been sitting a long time they could have reacted to all the crud in the air and oxidize to the point of poor conductivity. A good cleaning with a burnisher or point file would be in order.

If the battery cables have been replaced make sure they are large enough for 6v -- a 0 or better would be 00 gauge cable is suggested. Modern cables sold in parts stores today even if sold as 6v cables are generally too small and will result in a poor experience particularly if there are other engine issues or if the starter is in need of service and pulling a lot of current. A too small of battery capacity or dirty cable connections can also result in the same issue.

If the engine has been turned over a lot without starting the plugs could have fouled which would make a poor spark have an even harder job. You might pull a plug or two -- even if they are new -- and recheck condition.

It is kind of hard on coils with an armored cable but you might check the available coil voltage at the terminal fed by the wire in the armored cable when the starter is cranking. If the voltage for the coi drops near 5v the spark will be weak and any other issues would add to the difficulty.

On my 1940 Packard 110 Sedan, 6 cyl. with the key in the on position I have 6 volts at the lead outside the distributor that the condenser wire is also on. Inside the distributor, I have no power at my points. When I roll the engine over I see no arching at my points, but I have power to my lead outside the distributor still. Does anybody have any idea why this would be?

Do you have overdrive? If so, disconnect the wire from the #2 terminal on the overdrive relay that goes to the low tension terminal on the side of the distributor at the distributor end.

If the overdrive relay contacts are stuck, they can completely cut out power to the distributor points.