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RandyRebel wrote:
...I have begun with Step 1 by draining the old gas out. It smells like turpentine and is clear but a dark golden brown. It had about 10 gallons in the tank. No residue, rust or debris came out. The plug was easily removed.

Your 120 may have a filter screen in the bottom of the fuel pump and at the inlet of the carburetor. Good idea to check these screens as they can get plugged up.

...Wonder if there is any benefit to use an additional gas additive,like Sea Foam, or the Lucas products, to further clean the gas line and carb?If so, would appreciate suggestions either way.

No experience with gas additives like you talk about, but do use a product called Stabil. It is a fuel stabilizer and used when the car is not used for long periods of time. You may not even need this if you are using the good gas.

I have started to work on next draining the radiator. I have purchased two options for a radiator flush. Prestone and Gunk were available, each with a different set of directions. It seems the Prestone is a milder flush and the Gunk more caustic to the point of possibly stripping some of the protective layers on the radiator core. I like the idea of a more aggressive flush to get out rust and debris but certainly don't want to harm anything.

You will probably get lots of suggestions on this, but I prefer to back flush the radiator and block. That is run the flushing water backwards through the system. Remove the hoses to the radiator but leave the cap in place and run the flushing water up the radiator. This will help to flush debris out the top and not plug up the top of the core. Likewise, run the flushing water into the housing on the front top of the cylinder head and have it run out the water pump inlet (bottom hose connection). If it has a thermostat in the housing, remove it and replace the housing. Check operation of thermostat and replace all hoses. Good idea to back flush the heater core too, if equipped.

In the few times that the engine has run for 10-15 minutes, the dash gauges read normal for oil pressure and water temperature, but when lifting the bonnet it seems hotter than I would expect. The Oil Cap and supply tube are smoking a bit, noting the oil fill dipstick says "Full".
I wonder if the water pump is able to move fluids around the engine block or if this heating is normal. So hoping a flush will assist in lowering water temperature. Do I need to replace a Thermostat, and if so, where do I find one?

What you are seeing coming out of the breather cap is blow by. Combustion gases getting by the rings. It will probably get better the more you run the engine. Clean the breather cap per manual instructions. If the 120 uses a conventional thermostat then they should be available an local parts stores. I would suggest nothing higher than 160F.


I did open the stopcock on the lower front of the radiator and anti-freeze did come out. Nice and green, no rust or any discolor. I suspect it was changed during restoration 5 years ago, but, want to be certain its updated now.

Good idea, the anti freeze part of the solution stays, but the rust inhibitors break down over time.

Hoses look "OK", no leaks, but a good idea to replace them all and not worry about some unforeseen problem. Should I use currently made products or does a 1939 need something special?

Nothing special on the hoses unless you need a curved bottom hose. Stay away from the universal type that can formed to make curves. They are too stiff and can damage the radiator necks.

Next Step: Oil Change and Filter Replacement. I found some SAE 30, as recommended by the 1939 Shop Manual, made by Citgo/Mystic, on sale for $1.80/quart. A deal, I think, at our Farm & Fleet Store. Lots of farmers still use this oil grade for tractors so it should continue to be available. Other SAE 30 makes, like Valvoline and Castrol were $5.99/qt. Can't imagine they are that much better... ACE Hardware and Walmart had some off label stuff, no specs, so not sure of quality. Any thoughts on Citgo being OK?

Your choice of oil sounds fine.

For a new Oil Filter I called NAPA, who had nothing, and KANTER, who had a replacement Canister for a 1938, for $79 plus 15% shipping. Are there any other correct options, or
should I use the 1938 unit. My Shop Manual seems to suggest that the Flathead 8 282cu inch is the same in 1938 and 1939.

Oil filter elements should be available at NAPA and other stores. Use your old one for a sample. Depends on what manufacture you have (Fram, Purolator, AC). It is a by-pass type filter system.

As far as on Air Filter, neither NAPA or KANTER had anything! Kanter told me to go to HEMMINGS and find other Packard Parts Dealers. Any suggestions on what should be used, or, could be used, to have some Air Filter Protection?

Air filter element is to be serviced not replaced. You may have an oil bath or dry mesh type. Service them according to the manual instructions.

...And one more sweet detail would be a set of Fog Lights, that mount to the front bumper supports. I love the look of Trippe Lights, but, kinda pricey if you can even find them. There appear to be some aftermarket items out there in 5 and 6 inch versions. KANTER has a set with the Packard Crest on the top. Kinda look like Trippe's but a much better price at $208 for 6" Amber.

I bought a set of fog lights from Kanter. More for looks than function, but they light the road well.

Oh, one more thing, Outside RearView Mirrors. I love the look of mounting on the top of the sidemount tires. Looks like you'd have to drill holes in the tire trim cover making it permanent. I've been told the functional view is very limited, poor range, and dangerous. Option two is aftermarket hot rod shop Peep Mirrors that attach to the door frame. I have a set of those previously purchased, and for now at least seem a starting point. What is the suggested placement along the door that works best? Any thought about Door Mounted versus Sidemount Tire mounted?

If you have a set of 4" Peep mirrors they will work great. I would suggest mounting them high on the forward edge of the door. I mounted a set on my 37 Six convertible and they provide much better vision coverage than what is normally done where they are mounted lower down on the door. They are not authentic, but look great and work better than traditional ones.

WOW, that's a lot of questions!!! Sorry to be so "Long Winded". It just seems like there is so much to know, to fix, to update.... It really is an addictive and totally cool distraction. I LOVE THIS! Thanks for all your help and commentary. I REALLY DO APPRECIATE IT!

I will try to post some pics today as well.

ALL MY BEST,

Randy Prestash
Oconomowoc, WI