Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Marston,
Mal is right about my '29 & '22 Packards being RHD but the one I was referring to, the 740, is in fact LHD. However the point I was making is that the spacing at the toeboard is much wider than at the shaft but the actual detail is not relevant as the part number is not the same as for your car.
I should add that I have restored 3 Packards over the last 30 odd years each from very derelict condition and with many missing parts and am now finishing off a 1930 740. The pedals are all different and I have had to search for correct pedals because I had 1-2 that did not fit. I don't believe they had been bent, they were not the correct ones for the particular model.
I could be wrong but my guess is that your pedals have also come from a different model Packard to the one you have. I suppose they could be bent but you would need to make sure that not only the spacing at the toeboard is correct but the distance from shaft to toe board opening is also correct. I would be trying to find someone with spares to suit your model. If you do bend them they will need replating so it would be best to have your plater strip them first.
All of the pedals on my cars were originally nickel plated and that is how I refinished them.
David

Mal & DavidM

Thanks for your inputs. What I think I'm going to do is get the body in a better position for the clutch to work while looking at the position of the steering column where it goes through the fire wall. At that point I should be able to make some measurements to see if it is possible to run down the correct pedal. The last resort would be to strip off the plating and either bend or cut out a section and weld in a jog that makes it work.

Before I made that post referring to RHD tried to find my photos of David's 740 but came up empty handed. Then, just now, getting ready to make a post in the Wade's Workshop Blog found one!

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After I got the body moved over and adjusted it to fit the doors, the clutch pedal aligned with the opening in the toe board perfectly.

I studied the brake pedal in greater detail, it appeared that it had been straighten somewhat. Therefore, I'm having the chrome removed from it and I'll try heating it bending it in order to see if I can get it to fit.

To close out this post, I got the brake pedal back after the chrome had been stripped several weeks ago. I made a crude forge that used charcoal briquets for fuel and the exhaust from a shop vac for an air source.

After two attempts of multi-cycles of heating, bending, cooling and fitting I was able to get the pedal so that it worked. It took about 4 hours with 20 to 30 trips in and out of the car before success. There are several small tweaks below the floorboard in the pedal, but above the the floorboard it looks and works great.

I'll send it out to be chrome plated once I get together of more stuff.

If I have time before sending it out, I may try to adjust the brakes on the beast.

Thanks to all for your input - they are always welcome!