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As long as there is some type of pivot at the bottom that changes the pedal downward push into a vertical push that would work the top pivot, the rod could be extended and even have a bend in its length to accommodate the floorboard angle if the bottom pivot location is somewhere on that part of the floorboard. If the Jag engine is in the way of a straight path then maybe think of a plan 2.

If two pivots are feasible a length of 3/16 rod would probably work and not be subjected to any unwanted bending. Maybe could use a threaded clevis at each end of the rod to attach to the pivots rather than trying to bend a sharp 90° angle to fit thru a hole and hold a cotter key or retainer as is done with stock rods.

For that matter, depending on how the bottom pivot in a 37 looks and works you might even be able to attach a cable down there along the same lines as if one attached to the top.

Adjustable bell crank

www.speedwaymotors.com

search 5501523

exploded view

www.summitracing.com

part # MRG-1523

Looking at where the pedal comes through, it's pretty tight to engine and the engine then flares outward as you move up because of the DOHC. (See picture)

So, I don't even think the 55/56 pedal pivot point would fit. Not sure what is any pedal side mechanism vs whats already in there would fit/work. I may have to see if I can add a bellcrank the other side similar to the video I posted to take give me the correct pedal travel to throttle shaft rotation translation.

No matter what, I think it needs a return spring on pedal side.

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Looking at the space I have to work with. I think the best solution may be to have a lever arm bracket mounted on the carb side. Then the linkage coming from the pedal side can be connected to the end of the lever (furthest from the pivot), and the carb linkage can be connected closer to the pivot. That should allow translation in the scale of movement between the pedal throw and the 1/4 turn of the carb throttle rod.

Just brainstorming here. A bell crank wouldn't be needed as the direction of movement is already correct for both parts.

To add to your musings, on my Mustang, it has an arm going down to the pedal rod, while the pivot is up on the firewall above the motor. Downward motion on the pedal causes the rod to pivot back toward the firewall. As it is above the motor the pivot can be proud of the firewall enough to allow the movement to occur without hitting the firewall. The return spring is located on the motor on the opposite (radiator side) of the linkage. This configuration may give you action that does not interfere with the motor. If this seems plausible I can do up a detailed sketch.
Bob J.

Probably the most straightforward solution would be to replace the current lever on the carb throttle shaft with a longer one. Then the pedal linkage could connect further outboard, which should help to translate the motion better.

If I can get that figured out, then I can replace the baling wire with rod and Heim joint connections to make it a bit more permanent.

I just need to see what planes of motion I am dealing with to ensure that wouldn't create a binding issue.

A care package from Colin in the UK arrived with aircleaner parts I needed. My aircleaner was missing the end cap and since this is off a mid 50s Jaguar, pretty much impossible to find in the US. So I found one on ebay UK and Colin was nice enough to aquire it for me and forward it on.

Thanks Colin!

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Kev, lots of options for pedal to carb on Summit and Speedway. Cables work better pulling. Enjoying your adventure.

Also, I used the gray indoor-outdoor carpet from Lowe's on my 55 Clipper and 30 Model A Roadster. Easy to work with and does not need ends finished as it does not unravel.

End Cap added to the Volks aircleaner and test fit on the motor. It just clears the firewall.

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Are the brakes on this stock, with a single master cylinder? Curious to see if there was a dual added to this great project.