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Thanks so much for this description.

I jacked up the frame at the rear of the arm behind the front tire until the tire was off the ground, put a jack stand under it, and removed the front tire.

I moved the jack to under the arm and spring support bracket (see lower photo) and jacked it up until the knee-action shock arms were off the rubber bumper (upper photo) indicated by arrow. If this is right, I'll put a jack stand under there if possible and remove the cotter pin, nut and bolt.

I get that when the bolt connecting the arms to the wheel support is removed, the hub could flop down towards me, so I'll prop that up ahead of time.

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Moved the jack around to the side, but couldn't fit a stand under there, too, but it's ok because the frame jack stand is in place.

Used some baling wire to hold the hub up.

Pulled the cotter pin, and removed the nut (15/16") and washer.

The bolt itself is another issue. There's a fair amount of rust, so this is an opportunity to clean it up. Ten years ago I had taken it a suspension place and gave them a box of rubber parts to replace worn out parts. They gave me several items back. Lo and behold, the insulators for the upper support arms were in there, so now this method is paying off....

IF I can get the bolt out. I tried unscrewing it from the head, just in case there were more threads. It turns but does not move out. I got a block of wood and a hammer. Using wood means you won't damage anything. But it still doesn't move.

Am I doing something wrong?

I'll squirt some blaster in there since I'm replacing the insulators, which look pretty squished.

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"I got a block of wood and a hammer. Using wood means you won't damage anything. But it still doesn't move. "

Joe,

Something harder than wood but softer than steel is needed. A brass punch or "drift" should do the job.

There is a thick round steel collar/bushing/sleeve between the bolt and the upper outer 338830 bushings. These rust together and cause great frustration in removal. If you can verify that the bolt is turning and the sleeve is not, then it a matter of a bigger hammer to get past rough spots. If the sleeve is rusted to the bolt, well...it is going to fight you. Who will win....you decide. And then its a matter of sourcing a new collar/bushing and bolt. I know I have some NOS bolts, but not the sleeves...pretty simple to have a couple made, but not on a Sunday...

DAF

DON"T REMOVE THE BOLT! I was referring only to the tiny plug where you add oil. You don't need to disconnect any suspension components, at least I didn't.

Will wonders never cease. This simple project gets better and better. I hope you're getting some vicarious satisfaction and frustration out of this.

OK, the bolt doesn't want to come out. I sprayed some WD40 on it and used a small wire brush to clean it. I discovered the bolt passes through pilot caster camber bushings. I had some made in in the '70s, so if I can get this cleaned up, an alignment shop could figure out and install the correct ones, if they need to change.

Any suggestions on getting the bolt out? Is it just rusted in there?
Keep spraying and pounding with board and hammer?

Just saying, 57 users online at the moment. Anyone know what to do?

Remember, my career was as a Creative Director. If you needed an ad to promote Packard knee-action shocks, I could do that for you. But this, not so much.

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Try using a ratchet and socket and screw out the bolt. It may screw itself out.

Thanks Mal, David, Joey and tolandis,

I'm going to give it a rest. The bolt turns just fine. I'm soaking it. But I understand from David that if the bushings/sleeve and the bolt shaft have rusted together, it's virtually impossible to get it out. The last time these were touched was in the 70s. I'm going to keep spraying it hoping some will work its way inside. Otherwise it will have to cut at each end inside the washer. I'm going to wait for John on this one.

This is why it's a good idea to fill the shocks by removing the bolt every 10,000, not 100,000, miles. Joey I think your method is fine for your car. But now that I found the rubber insulators, I'll have to get the bolt out to put them in.

And thanks to everyone who looked at this and shook their head. More later.

A bolt puller with long arms might be able to get a grip? Some of the pullers have a cup and not a point at the end of the screw.

Worse case scenario, use a torch and melt out the bushing.