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Re: Water pump/Engine mount
#31
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West Peterson
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Quote:

Eiligeins wrote:
West, Evans coolant is not all it's cracked up to be. There can be issues with its use in old cars. Check this out:norosion.com/evanstest.htm

I for one would never run 100% glycol in my old cars. Their engines are built for straight water coolant. Running anything else will cause problems.


Interesting. A lot to consider. For now, I guess I will not use the Evans product.

Posted on: 2012/3/29 14:47
West Peterson
1940 Packard 1808 w/Factory Air
1947 Chrysler Town and Country sedan
1970 Camaro RS

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=4307&forum=10

aaca.org/
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Re: Water pump/Engine mount
#32
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Ozstatman
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G'day Eiligeins,
to PackardInfo. Presume you own a Packard so invite you to include it in the Packard Owner's Registry here on PackardInfo.

Posted on: 2012/3/29 16:01
Mal
/o[]o\
====

Bowral, Southern Highlands of NSW, Australia
"Out of chaos comes order" - Nietzsche.

1938 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

1941 One-Twenty Club Coupe - SOLD

1948 Super Eight Limo, chassis RHD - SOLD

1950 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

What's this?
Put your Packard in the Packard Vehicle Registry!
Here's how!
Any questions - PM or email me at ozstatman@gmail.com
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Re: Water pump/Engine mount
#33
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Eiligeins
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Quote:


Here's the response I got from Evans:

Water does transfer heat better, but it also boils and when internal metal temps get hot, the boiling water produces steam pockets in the system that can lead to hot spots in the heads and cylinders.

The Evans product has a higher boiling point, 375F, so it stays a liquid all the time. Consequently, it pulls more heat from internal metals, which in turn, leave behind cooler internal temps. Your gauge won't sense those temps as most gauges have the sensor located near the top outlet hose. So if Evans' coolant is pulling more heat from internal metals, you may see higher temps on the gauge, but the temperature of the coolant is being measured at its hottest point, when it is LEAVING the engine. You are not gauging the temps of the coolant inside the engine.

You may see warmer temps, you may see no change, or you may see lower temps. Way too many variables to know exactly what your car will do. All temp gauges are actually a reference. That sensor for the gauge DOES NOT sit in a still pond of coolant, it sits in a river of constant movement, and that's why you can see temps rise and fall.


That is interesting. But I noted with interest in the research found on that link that I posted that the higher temps being recorded with Evans coolant were not the coolant, but the actual cylinder head itself. If what Evans is claiming was true, the cylinder head temp would cooler, not hotter. So I'm still not buying the Evans claims.

I also noted that the research indicates that surfactants seem to be another "non-glycol" chemical approach to reducing the localized boiling of coolant in the cylinder heads.

Evans seems to be saying that if it looks like heat, and smells like heat, it's probably not heat. I just don't buy it.

Posted on: 2012/3/29 19:15
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Re: Water pump/Engine mount
#34
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Eiligeins
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Quote:

Ozstatman wrote:
G'day Eiligeins,
to PackardInfo. Presume you own a Packard so invite you to include it in the Packard Owner's Registry here on PackardInfo.


Thanks! It's good to be aboard. Will register.

Posted on: 2012/3/29 19:16
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Re: Water pump/Engine mount
#35
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Joseph Earl
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Sort of back to the subject- at least this has been an interesting discourse on cooling systems- but does anyone have an idea of how to remove the oil filler tube, engine in car? I would like to get it out of the way to access the number 2 freeze plug. I have tried a plumbing strap tool, and it won't budge.

BTW, I will use 100% water plus Redline WaterWetter in my system. Similar to Norosion, but available off the shelf at fine auto parts stores nationwide.

Posted on: 2012/4/1 16:10
Joey

(?=#=?)

"If chrome got me home, I'd for sure still be stuck somewhere."

[url=http://pac
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Re: Water pump/Engine mount
#36
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HH56
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It's just press in. You might try gently bumping in several directions with a rubber mallet to see if you can loosen it a bit and then pull up. When it does come out take notice of orientation. There should be a metal flap or baffle at the end sticking in crankcase. If installed wrong, the crank can hit and break it off. Several have run into that piece broken off and laying in oil pan or wondered why there was a ticking noise upon reinstalling the fill tube.

Posted on: 2012/4/1 16:21
Howard
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Re: Water pump/Engine mount
#37
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Joseph Earl
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Thanks HH- that did it. I see where the baffle needs to be positioned away from the crank. Looks a little tight down there on these strokers!

Posted on: 2012/4/1 17:06
Joey

(?=#=?)

"If chrome got me home, I'd for sure still be stuck somewhere."

[url=http://pac
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Re: Water pump/Engine mount
#38
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su8overdrive
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Rev. Earl, nothing wrong with Red Line(yours above). I used their stuff before i heard of No-Rosion in the mid-'90s. What's nice about No-Rosion is that it's good for five (5) years, and in the bargain, a better deal if you order it direct.

I still use Red Line Lead Substitute, which is a good, vetted product. Even engines with hardened valve seats can benefit from Red Line Lead Substitute should you be in the mountains or are otherwise pulling a lot of manifold pressure. Cheap insurance, and uses sodium instead of lead to cushion the valves during that nanosecond microweld each time they close.

But i've yet to find anything equal to No-Rosion and soft water for the cooling system. I learnt of it from a late friend who used nothing but in his Delahayes, Delage, Hispano-Suiza H6 and J12, Bugatti Type 101, a Packard Twelve, Marmon 16, Nash-Healey-- a real menagerie. Several took awards at Pebble Beach, but unlike most of those trailer queens, he insisted each of his cars run like the automobile it originally was, which i can vouch for.

That's reason #237 why i like PackardInfo.com. Most of us here believe in driving our cars now and then.

Posted on: 2012/4/3 19:48
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Re: Water pump/Engine mount
#39
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Joseph Earl
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Quote:

su8overdrive wrote:
Rev. Earl, nothing wrong with Red Line(yours above). I used their stuff before i heard of No-Rosion in the mid-'90s. What's nice about No-Rosion is that it's good for five (5) years, and in the bargain, a better deal if you order it direct.

I still use Red Line Lead Substitute, which is a good, vetted product. Even engines with hardened valve seats can benefit from Red Line Lead Substitute should you be in the mountains or are otherwise pulling a lot of manifold pressure. Cheap insurance, and uses sodium instead of lead to cushion the valves during that nanosecond microweld each time they close.

But i've yet to find anything equal to No-Rosion and soft water for the cooling system. I learnt of it from a late friend who used nothing but in his Delahayes, Delage, Hispano-Suiza H6 and J12, Bugatti Type 101, a Packard Twelve, Marmon 16, Nash-Healey-- a real menagerie. Several took awards at Pebble Beach, but unlike most of those trailer queens, he insisted each of his cars run like the automobile it originally was, which i can vouch for.

That's reason #237 why i like PackardInfo.com. Most of us here believe in driving our cars now and then.


Mine will be driven. That's my story. I'm stickin' to it.

As always, I remain,

The Rev. Earl

Posted on: 2012/4/3 21:47
Joey

(?=#=?)

"If chrome got me home, I'd for sure still be stuck somewhere."

[url=http://pac
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