Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Somewhere in the e-ignition system should be something that a reasonablee and sober.minded.person mite construe as a CONTROL MODULE.
Do u carry a SPARE control module?????? How much does a spare control module cost? Where do u buy a new conrol module?????

I have two of my four cars converted to the petronix elect. Ign system. The 1955 Custom Royal Lancer with the 270 hemi and dual point ign is the most resent change done in FEB 2013. The control module must be in the pick up assembly next to the reluctor (trigger wheel, cam) in the distributor. There are only two parts to replace inside the distributor and wires to the coil. My 55 Dodge is 6V pos ground and the difference in all starting modes is very swift, starting is not affected by cold or hot starts situations. I notice there is less sluggishness (sp) when accelerating and more response to throttle pressure at higher speeds. I did replace my coil with the petronix 6V coil. Additionally, I had the starter and generator rebuilt/checked and replaced the battery with a larger 6v 990CCA battery so there isn't any need to worry about minimum battery voltage that might not trigger a no start scenario.....Whether it would or not I don't know. My 1966 Rambler 770 classic convertible, 327, 4BBl was converted 10 years ago and has functioned without problems. I don't carry any spare elect Ign parts, I do carry a set of points and a condenser, if needed. In both cars, there are two dist parts and 2 wires for the elect ign. it's a 1/2 hour job to change. Hope this helps.

EDIT.....I bought both ign sets from Falcon Global on ebay, very knowledgeable, answered my questions thoroughly, reshipped the correct pos ground unit for the Dodge before I had time to return wrong item (they issued an UPS pick up). No hassle, no added cost very fast credit card reimbursement. Nope, don't own and stock.

Steve
packardguy53

Quote:

The plugs are 10mm non-resistor and the spark plug wires are supposed to be reproduction original so I assume they are non-resistor, but I'd have to see if I can positively ID them. It all seems to be working fine.

So in the end result having the pertronix ignition, it calls for to use the resistor plugs and no solid copper core plug wires?

Just as a matter of general practice with standard ignition, I'd never use both resistor plugs and resistor high tension wires. One or the other if I was interested in better radio reception, neither if I didn't care about the radio performance. I don't see why it would be any different with Pertronix which in any case I wouldn't use in a 6-volt car - just too many such installations later converted back to points and condenser after reliability problems. But in any case I wouldn't go with both resistor plugs and resistor wires.

I agree with O_D on the use of resistor plugs or wires, but not both. Vintage vehicle ignitions systems without some kind of supression cause TV and radio interference to nearby sets. Think of your neighbors as you run your engine in the driveway or while driving down the street.

(o[]o)

If you want to use solid core plug wires but don't want radio interference use resistance wire for just the coil wire. This will give radio suppression without excess resistance.

Ok Thank you all.

I finally had the chance to pick back up on 54' after about a year.

I did install the pertronix solid state and flame thrower coil for the 6v Positive ground.

I had a new set of wires and plugs but I can not find them so I'll start with another fresh set.

I do remember pertronix told me do not use the solid copper wires but I figured I'd ask on here for opinions.

Two of the parts stores have the Champion RJ12CY plugs in stock which I ran before.

My new missing plugs were the Autolite. 308 and I was told I could use them even though I have the Delco system is this true?

Eventually I will get the cloth solid core wires but for now I will go with surrpression wires.

Any thoughts or options on a non-resistance plug?

I will keep the points on hand just in case...

On 6v make sure the battery cables are large -- 0 or 00 gauge -- and the battery is in good condition and of sufficient CCA. Also that the grounds and all connections to the module and coil are good and clean.

If the starter needs work or engine has issues starter could draw excessive amps when cranking. If all the above is not in pristine condition the current pulled by the starter and resulting voltage delivered to the solid state logic in the electronic ignition module could easily be too low. The logic type used will not tolerate much of a voltage drop. It has a narrow working range and anything lower than about 5v at the module and it most likely will not fire or will be very erratic.

Many many 6v Pertronix units have acted up enough that they had to be pulled. Not necessarily because of the unit but because poor wiring or other conditions caused the units to misfire. 12v cars do not have the issue because there is a lot of room for voltage drop as compared to 6v cars.

Autolite 308 plugs are a good choice for these engines.