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Monday 12th April 2010

After yesterday's Packard run to the model railway and a fish and chips lunch spent some time at the workshop today helping Wade with some finishing touches for Big Red. When I first arrived PeterL was there with Wade and we spent some time talking before Peter bid us farewell. Next Noel called in, he'd been over to see his friend Tony who lives close by and had repaired some wheel covers for him for his Roller. And it looks like it wont be long before Noel's '39 is out of my garage and down at the workshop having it's new wiring harness installed by Wade. Also took a trip over to Grippy Rubber for Wade to obtain some rubber stripping for the '34 and rubber edging and tubing for Big Red. Also called Graham Wilkins, the crankshaft for the '41 is expected to be ready today so probably mid-week all will be ready to be picked up.

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Tuesday 13th April 2010

Wade and Gina are away for a couple of days so didn't go down to the workshop and instead started rubbing back the '41's running boards. I'd had them re-Rhinoed a couple of weeks ago and they were very ripply, so much so I wasn't looking forward to tackling them. But it had to be done, and beginning with the right side, and 80 grit paper, started the job. Although I knew it would take time I wasn't prepared for the time it looked like taking.....weeks.....months.....even years with the progress or rather the lack of it I was making. What to do? Why employ a labour saving device, so it was off to the local hardware store, a national brand here, but I won't mention the name. There, among the array of powered sanding devices, I found just what I needed, or so I thought. A small palm held 40mm belt sander, branded Ozito, together with an assortment of belts in different grits. At home changed the belt it came with for a 60 grit one and started. Because I'd been warned off using powered equipment by Peter, the Rhino guy, I was fairly tentative at first. But as I went on, picking up some hands on experience and becoming more familiar with it, worked it somewhat harder. I did notice it was getting hot to use so took the opportunity to switch off and clean things up. Although it has a dust collector bag most of the Rhino dust was being spread over the job and close surrounds. Did this a number of times and also changed to a new belt at one stage. And progress was being made, progress that you could see as you went, not like the hand sanding which was equivalent to an erosion process over the course of millennia! However, getting hot again and also changing the belt again, the sander wouldn't restart. It was at this point in checking connections, switches, power availability that I found the tag on the power cord which said "NOT INTENDED FOR INDUSTRIAL OR HIGH FREQUENCY USE"! I didn't think mine was industrial use, although it probably could be argued that way, but it certainly was high frequency use.

So a couple of hours after purchase it was back to the hardware store, where to my embarrassment it worked when plugged in! Back home again, it started OK, ran for a while, then I noticed the smell of an electric motor burning, so switched it off, let it cool down, then it wouldn't restart! So back to the hardware store where I found out the guy I had dealt with initially and also on my first return visit had gone home for the day. Instead the store manager attended to me and he pointed out it only had 280 Watts of power, so was suitable only for VERY light work. What to do? The manager was prepared to exchange it for a new one but the prospect of him being agreeable to do just that when a couple more sanders wore out in completing the job didn't seem likely. Instead he agreed to refund the purchase price and I found a larger 75mm Ozito 730 Watt belt sander which wasn't too heavy to hold one handed and even better it was $10.00 cheaper! With MORE POWER, Tim the Toolman would have been proud! It also has a warning label, but it looks a step up from the other. Also bought some extra belts to suit. Back home again, changed to an 80 grit belt and fired it up. Although it isn't as easy to hold and use, it is almost as effective. Have now done a little more than half the running board and should finish it later this week. And I'm thinking of going back and buying another of the palm held Ozito belt sanders for some of the more intricate work but using it sparingly with greater care and plenty of cool down time when it starts to warm up.

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Thursday 15th April 2010

Wade is still away, but I spent the day at the workshop working on the '41! Doing what, and am I qualified to do anything by myself? Well I have to have a go sometime and seeing what I was about to do wasn't mechanical in nature I decided to give it a go. It was installing heat and sound insulating rubber backed aluminium foil sheeting on the cabin floor. Although I'd bought some of this sheeting about 2 months ago, the other day when we went over to Grippy rubber I saw they had sheeting with thicker rubber but at a cheaper price and purchased 2.5 metres to use instead. And why is this being installed, it's not kosher you know? Because an authority higher than any Concourse judge deemed it must be so! What higher authority is there? My good wife, Kath, that's who! If she's getting hot on Packard runs most anything will be done, except install air-conditioning, to alleviate heat transfer from the engine and exhaust into the cabin.

Started by removing the carpet, underlay and the rubber matting I'd made last year for the front cabin area. This necessitated unbolting the front seat from the floor, 2 bolts aside, and sliding the seat back and bottom assembly into the rear floor area. The insulating sheeting comes in rolls a little over 1 metre wide which is just about perfect for the underseat/underfloor coverage required. Using the rubber sheet I'd made for the front floor from the toe board to under the front seat as a template cut my first piece of insulation. And it's easy to cut, using just a pair of scissors. Measured, marked and cut out around the transmission inspection plate. Marked and using a hole punch cut holes for the trans plates mounting screws. Finally cleaned up the trans plate and coated it and the foil side of the insulation with contact adhesive let them "go off" and then put them together carefully. And it worked! Mounted the trans plate back in the car using just 2 screws. Then because the piece for the trans plate had been cut from the bigger floor piece placed the bigger piece in place, marked it because I was cutting it roughly down the middle to facilitate fitment a little later. With the front seat pushed back I couldn't just put it in place in one piece. Had previously punched a hole for the tension spring for the front seat in the insulation so used that as a point where the cut pieces intersected. That done a clean up of the right side of the floor and application of adhesive to both surfaces. Waiting for the adhesive to "go off" then started measuring and marking the left side piece to cut out the battery access plate. By this time was able to install the right side piece and managed to get it in without mishap. My biggest fear all throughout this process was having the adhesive adhere in the wrong place with consequent anguish and frustration. Finished cutting out the battery plate piece so cleaned up and applied adhesive to the left floor and floor piece. While that was "going off" started on the toe board piece by measuring and cutting it approximately to shape. Also measured and cut a small piece to cover the front of the trans plate which necessitated more holes being punched. Back to the left floor piece as it was now ready for installation, and Oh oooH! The cut out for the battery plate was about an inch too short on the inside edge. Not to fear though, just cut the offending piece out, fortunately it received very little adhesive so was easily fixed. Cleaned up battery plate, applied adhesive. Also applied adhesive to the small piece at the front of the trans cover and went back to measuring and fitting of the toe board piece. This piece provided the most challenges to accommodate the accelerator pedal and shaft, the top of the trans plate, the clutch/brake pedal plate and the present firewall insulation which "dips down" above the area of the pressure plate. A lot of trial fitting, trimming, cutting followed by a lot of trial fitting, trimming, then some more trial fitting, trimming, etc, etc. During the course of this also attended to the battery plate and front of trans plate adhesions, both without incident. Phew! For the toe board ended up cutting out a separate piece for the brake/clutch plate and working with that. Finally all was ready to apply adhesive to the toe board piece, the clutch/brake piece and one small filler piece for the left side. But first a trial fit to ensure I had a good chance of fitting it without a snafu. Looked promising so cleanup of surfaces, application of adhesive and a tidy up while waiting for it to "go off". Carefully handing the toe board piece the accelerator shaft was passed through it's requisite hole and then starting around the top of the trans plate it was pressed into place. The left side around the clutch/brake plate was then pressed to fit before moving around to the right side to finish it of. Again, all went well, so a big sigh of relief that it all went where it should. One thing I noted, and now that I think back the same thing happened when I was measuring cutting and fitting the rubber sheeting to the floor, was the amount of in and out, side to side, back to bench, bench to car movement required for all of this.

Quote: Gerd,

Yes, I have a Bosch Jigsaw and many years ago had a Bosch nibbler, fine tools. If they'd had a Bosch belt sander like the one in your illustration I would have been very interested because it looks perfect for the job I have in hand. As it is Bosch tools are in the premium price range here so I opted for the cheapie because this is a one-off project and unlikely to be used again.

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Mal
I hate to say this, but it is very obvious that the guy spraying your Rhino Lining doesn't know what he's doing. They should be no where near that rough when they're done spraying. He needs to have a talk with the Rhino Lining guy in Minneapolis, Minnesota, or with Dave Mitchell.

Quote:West,
All I can say is, I know. The whole running board re-rubbering saga has been a learning one with advice along the way from yourself, Dave Mitchell and Keegan. Suffice to say the guy doing the Rhinoing has had no experience with using that process for this type of application. To start with I didn't realise when I gave him instructions for a couple of very light coats that the holes along the length of the board wouldn't fill in with Rhino. The holes are there for 160/180's and except for the ones at each end aren't used on 120's. The initial coats were a lot smoother with much less orange peel which I hand sanded back together with the filler used to plug the superfluous holes. With the latest application I instructed the guy to use heavier coats of Rhino because I would sand out any imperfections later. I didn't expect what he presented and he was very sheepish about what he'd done. Meanwhile with the situation I've created for myself I'll continue with my remedial work and eventually aim to end up with a pair of "reasonable" Rhinoed running boards for the '41 120 Club Coupe.

And some good news - Friend Noel took his '41 160 Club Coupe boards with him on a US trip a few months back and Hunley Acuff re-rubbered them, he's doing '41's now! I'll be interested to see them when they arrive in Oz shortly.

Quote:

Do those count as checked or carry on luggage?

Friday 16th April 2010

Wade was working on completing the interior fitment of Big Red when I arrived this morning. The battery access plate was loose so some sponge tape was applied to take up the slack. Only trouble was it was too thick necessitating sectioning the sponge to overcome this obstacle. Then the carpet was relaid and the clutch and brake pedal plates were re-installed together with the rubber covers. Lastly came the front seat squab and that was that, Big Red was ready to roll again. Wade entered the front seat, adjusted it's location and it slid easily back, then started up Big Red and drove it slightly forward and back, so it works!

I thought the next step would be to do the workshop shuffle. And no, it's not a dance, it's just moving cars around to 1) get Big Red out of the corner. 2) move the '34 Body into the corner slot, 3) move the '34 Chassis into the slot where Big Red currently is, 4) shuffle the '41, if required, it'll have to move out to let Big Red through but will go back more or less to where it is now, 5) repark Big Red or Old Blue where the '34 Chassis is now, and 6) possibly bring down Noel's '39 for it's re-wiring. However because John was very busy, the whole re-shuffle scenario is being left till Monday when workshop activity should be a lot calmer.

Instead there was a minor tidy up of the corner slot to accommodate the '34 Body with mainly my '41 parts being shelved or re-organised to free up some space. That done I suggested that the front seat could be bolted back in the '41 after yesterday's insulation installation. Now back in 2008 I'd both removed the front seat and replaced in the '41 entirely by myself and it was a struggle. Not just to get it in out and in of the car but to locate and tighten the mounting bolts and there's only 2 per side. This time the seat was in the car, I had Wade helping me, and I had the benefit of the experience of having done it before. Didn't matter! It was still a struggle, even with Wade's assistance to line up the bolts and the holes then to start a bolt in any of the holes. Started on the right side and after about the 14th attempt thought I had the front mounting bolt started so came round to the left side to start one of those. Instead, as I'm coming round, Wade gave me the news that it wasn't started. However I then started on the left side and this was more compliant with the front bolt starting after about 12 attempts. Then the left rear bolt went in after only a couple of attempts. Back to the right side, thinking things must be better aligned, so must be easier now. Alas, it was not to be. Many attempts later, lost count of the number, still hadn't started the bolt. Wade suggested and found a slightly longer bolt and again after many attempts finally got it started. Now to the rear right, all the others were started so this one should now be easy. Not to be, I did start it but it was going in at an angle and starting to cross thread. Stepping back, figuratively not literally, I then observed that the right front was also slightly sqew-whiff so was causing the problem at the rear. out they both came, another re-alignment of seat frame, wooden mounting strap, re-insertion of the longer bolt completely vertical and in it went. More re-alignment at the rear and it too started and went in. Tighten everything up, put the squab back in and it's only taken about an hour for what should be a 5 minute job! But Wade's letting me do the work seeing it's my car so it's probably to be expected.

With time available Wade turned to looking what could be done for the '41 especially motor parts to ready them for the engine's return and re-assembly. Speaking of which I rang Graham Wilkins to be advised they were working on the last details and expected everything to be done late morning or early afternoon and he'd ring me when ready. Graham rang after I'd returned home, and just before I started this post, to advise all the work was done and ready for pickup. Had to advise Graham that it would now be Monday when Wade and I would be able to do that. Anyway things that can be done are: rebuilding the water pump, re-bushing the distributor and rebuilding the oil pump. Although all these were working it was decided to take this opportunity to rebuild things now. Turned to the oil pump, dis-assembled it and in cleaning it found there were 3, yes three, washers under the oil pump spring, and not flat washers either but split washers! Plus the pressure relief piston was worn and, as the rebuild kit doesn't come with a replacement, Wade cannibalised one from the incomplete 120 engine that Barry had given me about a year ago. Wade suggested that Stan, the machine man, drill the necessary hole in the new oil pump shaft for the pin required. Will follow that up next week, probably after re-shuffle and engine parts pickup completed.

And here's a video of Big Redrunning and rolling.

Quote:Kev,

I'd like to say he booked a separate seat for them because he couldn't let them travel by themselves but....they went as checked luggage. However they aren't being afforded the same level of carriage on their return to Oz, because they are being sent by what Noel calls "the Pirate Ship".

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Just received a pic from my Dad. He's been going through old photos and found this one from January 1946 when he and my Mum visited the Jenolan Caves. He said "we were going to go by bus then we discovered the long wheelbase Packard". They are the couple in the middle of the pic, Dad on the left and Mum on right in pants suit.

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Interesting picture of your parents outing and can't help but compare your mom in the pants suit and the other ladies in dresses to mine. Mine also wore them in the 50's when most women went back to dresses. Remember some lively discussions taking place with my father and grandmother about the proper attire for ladies. Know mine told them both quite plainly that she wore them during the war and no one was going to tell her not to after.

As to the car, there is a lot of work in converting that steering so have to give the guy much credit.

I used to hang out a a friends shop where he did those type conversions for handicapped people who had lost arm function and needed foot steering and conversions for the independent postal contractors who wanted RHD for rural deliveries.

The foot steering was a large circle of steel with a gadget and place for the toes to grip which was chain connected to original steering shaft. Quite a bit of engineering on some cars. The RHD was also chain driven in a manner similar to the way this car is belt driven except the chain was lower and more hidden behind dash (if enough room after stuff removed). All in all very nicely detailed & covered and didn't look too bad when completed.

Interesting thing was there is almost no metal to attach things to on the right so a lot of engineering had to be devoted to supporting things. He said GM cars were the absolute worst as they were engineered for lightness so thin metal, lots of gaps and spaces to reduce weight and not much strength so lots of flex unless heavy metal was welded to body in several areas.

Saturday 17th April 2010

Running boards! Spent half a day working on the running boards with the new belt sander. The right side one is now about 80% done, being about 90% complete for rough sanding because the inside curve cannot be accessed with the sander I have. Probably buy another of the little palm sanders to do that, most likely next weekend. The other 10% being the finer sanding required to then finish it. Also started rough sanding the left side one and I'm probably about 40/50% through that process. So things are progressing with the running boards, but there's still a way to go.

My daughter keeps a Private Blog of her family's activities concentrating on our granddaughters of course. And I'm pleased she included some of the pic's I took last Sunday on the PACA run as part of the visuals. I've included one of her pic's here, of her and her family enjoying the day.

Quote:Howard,

Yes, attitudes are hard to change, but your mother appears to have a strong personality and sticks up for herself.

The steering wheel pic was, of course, included as a joke but your response and insights into those matters was more than interesting to say the least.

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