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....then tightened to about 4 lbs

That will be too tight and will ruin the bearings and races quickly, perhaps you missed the full directions given earlier? Go back to to post #35 for that info. After tightening to 4 ft-lbs, you should back off 1 hex and then to the next cotter pin hole.

OK, I'll redo it. Also, let me make sure I'm tightening the right one the right way. There is the nut that actually touches the bearing and pushes it into place, then the little circle washer thing with the holes in it, then the other nut that is on the outside that is nearest to the cotter pin. It doesn't address both nuts in the instructions/directions.

Sorry to oversimplify, you have a little more elaborate system than the system the service instructions correspond to, but the principle of setting the bearing is exactly the same. You tighten the inner nut which actually locates the bearing to 4 ft-lbs and back off one hex. The disc with the holes should have a key in it that fits the keyway in the spindle, and it is reversible to give alternative hole positions. You back off a bit more to align the nearest hole in the disc with the pin to establish and lock the position of the inner nut; loosen rather than tighten if you don't get an exact pin to hole match. The outer nut is just a lock nut; snug it up tight and install the cotter, it has no effect on the bearing adjustment.

Maybe someone else who actually has pictures can explain it better, but you apply the same principle as the later simplier design.

Here is a guide from Timken that might add insight.

http://www.timken.com/es-es/solutions/automotive/aftermarket/lightduty/TechTips/Documents/Vol2Iss1_Proper_Tapered_Bearing_Settings_English.pdf

I just replaced my front wheel bearings for the first time and found the above helpful to understand what is going on. Note that you have two sets of bearings and races on each wheel - an outer and an inner. The races are pressed into the brake drum. When you tighten the first nut you are putting pressure on the bearings against the races and causing friction or drag. I believe the objective is to find the sweet spot between eliminating the drag but no looseness between the bearings and the races.

Hope this is helpful..

but no looseness between the bearings and the races.

That's contrary to what I've always read and been taught - that there should be freeplay, almost imperceptible and such that you can just barely feel it when you rock the drum side to side but not enough that you can actually see it, perhaps 0.001 to 0.004 inches. This would be similar to the free play on rear axle tapered roller bearings which is typically specified at about 0.004".

OD you are correct, pardon my poor explanation. Timken says .001-.007 freeplay.

I took it down the driveway and down the road but it still feels and sounds like the brakes are dragging or something. When I brake the steering wheel pulls hard to the left. It feels like the right front brakes are dragging against the hub.

Any ideas?

Quote:

Now that you know how to remove the front brake drum, suggest that the left one be removed and the parts inspected.
Also make sure that the brake shoes are adjusted properly.

And what about the state of the linings? If one side has been exposed to brake fluid or grease from a leaking wheel cylinder or axle seal then it will tend to grab. Looking at the pic in Post #38 it seems something could have been leaking at some stage.