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I think I found the culprit. One pic is obviously the wheel with hub off and the other one is the (I think) retainer pins and springs. As you can see the one on the right is missing the tow little circle things that I guess keep it in place. Where in the world would I get new ones?

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Where in the world would I get new ones?

Not to worry, easy peasy as they say, just standard brake hardware commonly available though I don't know if you can get just those parts singly, you may have to buy a full hardware kit for the wheel. Certainly Kanter's and Max have them, others may have other suggestions for sourcing.

If you pm me with address I'll drop a couple in an envelope for you. The larger issue is that I see brake fluid running down from the front of the brake cylinder. You really need to have these puppies done properly before something way more drastic than getting stuck in the garage happens.

Brakes are far and away the cheapest part of a restoration (or even just a fix-up for driving) so don't cut corners. There are new wheel cylinders and master cylinders available, and brake tubing is cheap and plentiful. There is no Packard being driven on the road that should still have its original lines and hoses.

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Each pin gets one spring retaining disk so you have the correct number.

Edit: Also, the brake adjuster appears to be extended quite a bit. This may have contributed to the difficulty in removing the drum.

Edit 2: Howard pointed out to me that the parts manual shows two disks per pin so disregard my comment (the brake kits I purchased had one per pin).

And while going that far, you can change all seals, and check all bearings, especially rear's.

When I turned the star wheel 15 clicks like instructed I guess I went the wrong way. I need to get it back toward the middle of the spring I guess?

My 47 Custom Clipper had a slot on the outside of the brake drums. The slot was even with the inside surface of the drum. Rotating the drum would reveal the brake shoe lining. I used this slot and view of the linings when doing a major brake adjustment with the anchor pin. I could rotate the anchor and see how it was affecting the contact of the linings to the drum as the drum was rotated.

(o{}o)

I'm a complete idiot for forgetting. Anyway, I'm just now putting the bearing back in the hub and putting all back together. OK, you know how the bearing is slanted, right? So which way do I insert it into the hub? A pic would be great if anyone has one.
Thanks

On both of the bearings the small ends of the taper go to the inside of the hub. Strongly suggest you consult a service manual so as to reassembly the parts. The wheel bearing adjustment is critical, as is the amount of grease in the bearings, as is the installation of the grease seal. All of these parts are too critical to safety to not be done properly. Is there someone you know who can help you with this job? If so, strongly suggest asking them for help. I could help if you were in Austin. Please proceed with caution.

(o{}o)

I put it back together just the way it came off and everything is in good condition. I seated it, then backed it off, then tightened to about 4 lbs. The wheel turns by hand and it didn't before. I'll test drive it tomorrow.