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Now you've got me thinking if I had a mental hiccup. Yes, the pedal travel will need to increase because you have to move a greater volume of fluid into the cylinders to get the same amount of movement of the shoes. But as to the hydraulic pressure, the pressure created by the master is now exerted over more area in the wheel cylinders, so less pedal pressure is needed.

PS - as to thinking about yet further changes in wheel cylinder diameters, no - I'd stick as close to the factory sizes as I could.

That would be a benefit. Instant power brakes! I think it has something to do with force multiplication.

Joey, just remember that at some point as you keep increasing the wheel cylinder diameter, a full stroke of the master cylinder will not be able to delivery enough volume of fluid for the shoes to reach the drums. Doubt you're there now, but something to keep in mind.

The brakes are almost done- I received the master cylinder Friday, and am awaiting a water pump rebuild kit to arrive Monday. I also received the one piece oil pan gasket (thanks BigKev for the link).

As I was waiting, I worked on cleaning and refinishing parts. I am concerned with the sheen of the black on the suspension and engine bay parts. I have seen some folks use gloss black when spraying the drums, backing plates, control arms, etc., but I don't think that is correct. There are two blacks I would never use: flat, and gloss. But it's hard to know what was factory correct. Until now!

In preparation for removing the radiator, I had to remove the panel that goes between the grille and the radiator. Mine was in pretty bad shape, with surface rust, but I knew it was black at one time. After removing it, I flipped it over, and viol?! The underside was almost factory new. So now I have a reference for the correct sheen of the black.

I have been using a PPG Concept single stage black over PPG black epoxy primer. The epoxy primer could be used as a final coating for some parts, but it is not black enough. The application of PPG Concept mixed 50/50 with 995 flattening agent is what I used on my brake drums and backing plates. It is really close to the panel underside, but I might try a 60/40 mix with the Concept/995 to more closely approximate the factory sheen, which seems to lie somewhere between satin and semi-gloss. For those who don't have access to spray equipment, the Krylon Semi-gloss Black is pretty close, but won't give the durability of a catalyzed product applied over an epoxy primer.

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In another thread, I have a discussion concerning the water pump removal and motor mount along with distribution tube questions. All these were promptly and accurately addressed by some of the members of this fine forum.

The thread is: Water pump/Engine mount

So, now that I have entered into cooling system territory, the cans with worms in them began to open up. I am happy to say that all of the issues have been resolved. I thought I would never get that stubborn distribution tube out.

Many thanks to Ross, Owen, Wesley, Guscha, West, Fred, and BH for the excellent advice and direction!

I now have the engine supported, the motor mount removed and a new one on order, the water pump removed, cleaned and partially disassembled, ready for the new rebuild kit that arrived today, the distribution tube removed and cleaned, the freeze plugs removed, the thermostat housing removed, the block flushed, and the radiator at the shop getting cleaned and tested for leaks.

When all is back together, I should have a cooling system in tip top shape ready for the Florida summer heat!

I still have to finish the brakes- I'm waiting for the front wheel seals I ordered along with the motor mounts from Kanter. I also have to pull the oil pan to clean the sludge, and that will be after I install the motor mounts so I can actually get to the bolts.

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Today I took my water pump over to my friend's machine shop, to get the shaft pressed out and to install my new Merritt water pump rebuild kit. I had removed the back plate from the pump, media blasted everything, run taps and dies on the bolts and nuts, and was anticipating installing my fresh water pump tonight.

Things didn't work out that way.

The fan hub didn't want to come off. Using an electric hydraulic press, we first tried a bearing removal tool underneath the hub, and were bending the bolts on that. Then we pressed on the shaft where it stuck out of the hub, and had success moving the bearing in the housing. Pressing until the hub touched the snout, we decided to continue to attempt to press the shaft after heating the hub. It was working until we stopped to get something to catch the hot impeller and shaft when it released and fell out the bottom of the press. When we resumed pressing the shaft, the socket that was positioned on the shaft had moved off center, and it caught the edge of the hub, cracking the casting.

I tried to save a few bucks, and now I have to buy a pump and pay the core charge. I'm returning the rebuild kit, of course.

Anyone out there have a junk (but buildable) water pump they would like to donate to a good cause? Please let me know- I'll pay shipping...

New water pumps are available. See this eBay listing.

Joey, I will donate a water pump housing for your project. How does $10 sound for shipping? You just need the main housing, right?
Packardtaximan

That sounds just fine! Thank you very much. Let me check w Merritt and make sure they will accept it as a core. I may have to extract the shaft and impeller from mine if you only have the casting. I will PM you today when I find out what they need.

Thanks again!

A waterpump has been the only thing that I have "sent out" to be redone. Just didn't have the tools to do it myself. Also didn't want to mess it up and have to go into the weeds for another rebuild kit. So I just did an exchanged rebuilt one.