Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I recently purchased a '55 Clipper Super. As I drive down the road, the car pulls to the right. When I step on the brakes it pulls even harder. Local shop said alignment would not help and to check tire pressure. I confirmed the tires are all the same pressure. Car has new struts and right tie rod, pulled before and after parts were installed. The car leans a bit to the right as I assume the torsion bar suspension needs a bit of work. I can hear the unit click when power is supplied, but it does not level out. Looking for ideas on what to check to correct the pull. Any thoughts are appreciated as I want to get it out a few times this summer. Also if anyone knows of a good engine rebuilder in NE Wisconsin, that would be appreciated too.

Thank you in advance.

I don't see the brakes mentioned as being checked or gone thru. I would check the linings for any grease on them and also the type of the linings and size of the drums. If a wheel seal was leaking or a wheel cylinder leaked brake fluid either could mess up the linings. Only doing a brake job on one side or turning one drum and getting a different diameter side to side or a different type lining can also cause pulling. If the car has been sitting then possibly a wheel cylinder has become corroded and is no longer applying the brakes evenly. Front brake hoses can also deteriorate and if one side has a bad hose that could result in uneven application.

On the suspension, to change the height on one side will require a different length front load link installed. You will need the tool to hold the bar while the work is done and a different size link. Here is a bulletin explaining ride height issues and corrections.https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/STB/55T-1.pdf

On the suspension not working, need more information on what and where you hear the clicking. It could be a blown fuse but there could be other things too.

Thank you for the info Howard. It is greatly appreciated. The click is coming from under the driver side of the car by the front door. The person I bought it from said the leveler motor has a constant draw, so for the meantime I disconnect the battery when I'm not driving it. Once the battery is reconnected, a few seconds later I will hear a click, but the car does not level out. I also tried the load test from one of there ads with constant weight in the back and the car did not level out. I haven't had a lot of time to dig into that topic yet. Thanks again for the other info.

There is no constant drain -- at least in a normal operating system there is not.

The systems is powered by two circuits. The first is a circuit which goes thru the brake light switch and provides power to the control switch under the car. If you step on the brakes, the brake light switch changes state. The brake lights come on and the power to the control switch is interrupted so the leveler cannot operate. As long as the brakes are not applied there will be power to the switch but it is not doing anything. The toggle switch at the extreme left side under the dash edge is in that circuit and will turn the system on or off. The fuse for that part of the circuit in 55 is the body feed fuse located under the dash.

As long as the car is level, there is a pair of contacts operated by a link connected to the Left main bar which will be open. Nothing in the switch is powered with those contacts open. As soon as the car gets out of level, the L. bar rotates slightly moving a lever on the switch and closes one of the contacts depending on if the car needs to go up or down. When that contact closes the switch starts drawing power to heat a bimetal strip. The strip starts to bend and after 7-10 seconds it moves far enough to close another contact to bring in a relay inside the control switch. That relay is probably the click you hear.

Once the relay is closed it brings in a solenoid which starts the motor moving to level the car. When the car reaches level, the linkage opens the first contact and all power drops out so everything stops. If for some reason, the car doesn't stop via the control switch then the limit switch is actuated by a transverse bar and will stop everything before damage is done. On 55 that limit switch was vulnerable to road debris so first chance you get make sure nothing is bent and the bracket and switch actuator is lined up squarely with the transverse bars.

Since you hear a click I suspect the fuse to the solenoids and the level motor is open. In 55, that will be a 20 amp inline fuse in a red wire and should be located somewhere close to the starter solenoid. I would look for that fuse and see if it is blown.

Here is a schematic of the 55 circuit showing all the contacts in the system. If your control switch has been changed to a 56 version, the wiring is the same but the location and type of terminals on the switch is different.

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G'day Clipper55super,
to PackardInfo and I invite you to include your '55 Clipper Super in the Packard Owner's Registry.

I am down in Milwaukee with a '55 Super/Panama. We want photos!

Here is a few pics. It needs some work on the exterior (autozone badges on side have been removed), but the interior is very clean.

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for including your '55 Clipper Super Touring Sedan in the Registry.

Note - In my capacity as Forum Ambassador I included one of your photos in the Registry entry but it came out "sideways" like yours. I'll fix that a little later as it reminds me I have to take some pics of the headlight wiring on my Packard for another owner here in Oz who is currently putting things back together on his '41 Coupe.

Hmmmm......being technologically challenged with a new laptop I'm having difficulty in fixing the photo, ie can't do it at this time, so please leave it with me for a while.

Nice looking car.

Is that mileage right, 7,884?

When I tap on he pictures with my iPad, they are not sideways.

Your looks level in the pictures.

When you brake or accelerate, does the car go down or up in the front?