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howard one more thing how in the heck do the rear drums come off i have the castle nut and cotter pin out i see the key-way but can not get the key-way to slide out or get the drum to slide off is it froze???? or is there something i am missing

Not to jump in on HH but I see he's not online at the moment. You'll need a drum puller. If you browse the forum a bit you'll find MANY posts on this topic with pictures of the various pullers folks have used, and some tricks for drums which prove stubborn to remove.

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ohhhhhhhh ok so im doing it right and there is not something im missing i just need a finger puller

If by a finger puller you mean one that grips the outside rim of the drum, NO!, you'll break the drum. See the picture I added above to my earlier post. You must have a puller that attaches to the wheel lug pattern.

got it i can make one of them easy enough thank you

purchased a 1924 packard model 136 roadster in dallas texas in march, trying to find history on it, any suggestions? one of the former owners in 1977 was tom lyte. car was restored but in garage for at least 27 years, needs work on paint but runs great.

G'day Roger,
to PackardInfo. Some avenues of investigation for former owners would be the Roster Keepers of PAC and PI for the year Packard in question, that's if former owners were members of those organisation. Or closer to home the local Packard Club at Dallas. And I invite you to include your '24 136 Roadster in the Packard Owner's Registry here on PackardInfo! Also I think your post and responses thereto deserves a thread of their own, maybe our Webmaster BigKev can perform some technological magic to make that happen? And that way it'll keep Al's thread devoted to his Clipper.

hello my new freinds, ok i found a master cylender rebuild kit on e bay. so a took apart my power brake unit booster and master last night. looks to be a walk in the park to rebuild the unit ill update you all after i get it done. but how ever i also took a booster and master from a 88 ford festeva that looks like would be a easy swap to make it fit if mine dont turn out so well that might be alternative

Read thru some of the BTV threads for experiences with rebuilds. There are some things to watch out for since the vacuum is directly connected to the hydraulic section.

The condition of the piston, the bore where the seal goes, and the relief port and gasket issue need to be checked. A bad part anywhere in that area and your fluid can wind up on the vacuum side. The compensator valve and seat is the big one though. Speculation has been that a failure in sealing that little blob of rubber is the reason so many BTV's have caused issues.

You might also want to read up on the pedal ratio issue and things you might have to do to make your modern unit work if you are planning to mount it in the same location as the BTV.

well guys and girls,,,,,,,, i ordered a rebuild kit for the master and booster.(AND IT WORKS GREAT) it was like a walk in the park. so if any one needs one done let me know lol. but now im lost on a nother problem. so the fuel line that comes out of the tank. is in the middle of the tank so that means its has to be 1/2 full to get any fuel??????. is there a tube on the inside of the tank that shoots it down to the bottom of the tank.???? so now i ran a line to the drain plug thats in the middle and bottom of the tank with a filter. and pluged the other one off... it works but i know its not right is there something that im missing on this????