Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

If enough of the stud remains above the surface I can very highly recommend this type of stud remover. There is a variant on this type where the knurled wheel does not have a bottom support and this type may be better suited if only a small amount of the stud remains above the surface.

Attach file:

---

  (120.96 KB)

Owen- thanks for the info. I found one just like that and removed all of the studs. I did break off five more- they were the ones that appeared to have the most corrosion built up around the base. This is after soaking in PB blaster for a few days and tapping the tops of the studs several times to try and "shock" the threads a little bit to allow the oil to seep in. I did use a small mechanics pick to clean around the top thread, and was able to save several more that wanted to break. A little disappointed that 6 of 23 broke, but looking at the conditions of the stud, I think I could have easily broken 15 or more if I had just reefed on them.

The engine is pulled, clutch and flywheel off, and I just need to get four bolts so I can mount it on the engine stand. 2x7/16 UNC in case anyone is looking to do the same. Basic plan for the weekend is to pull the cam and crank, then go over the engine with a fine tooth comb and make my machine shop decision. I measured my big crack at 4.5", and may have found a second, smaller crack between #2 and #3 cylinders, again on the driver's side.

Oh, and of course- all of the studs broke off flush with the block, right where the lower threads start.wx

Hey guys. I had a stud puller same as that one in the tool box. Never had much luck with it. Funny when i had the sale That was one of the items that never moved, even at a dollar.
Just gave it to my old bud James for a water pump bolt, good luck!

Hi Ken,

Usually I'm in the "post-war" forums but ran into your project blog once and really enjoy catching up on your updates. Congratulations dad! (better late than never). He's now getting old enough to help you with the "37 - right? Also, many thanks for serving (from an x-jarhead to a squid ). Hope all your assignments are good ones!

- Your comments about the cracks caught my eye cause I had the same in my 23rd eight cooling jacket. I had good luck repairing it and posted some pictures and comments on one of your other blogs - here .

Good luck on your project - and everything else.
Looking forward to hearing more
- Sam

Sam, thanks for the info and encouragement. I was planning on fixing the block myself, but I may have a lead on another, uncracked '37 engine. If that pans out, I'll probably just re-assemble my engine (loosely, not in a runnable fashion) and store it until I need it or decide to sell it.

Wow- so it's been over a month since I've posted, and unfortunately, not too much to talk about. Life has been hectic between prepping for winter, the first few storms, Thanksgiving, and a huge inspection at work. That said, I have done a few things.

1. The engine is mounted on a stand. A little hard to turn because of the leverage exerted by the long block, but not too bad. I think I would modify the stand if it was an 8, or buy a better engine stand. I did have to modify the arms- the bellhousing spacing is different on my engine than a modern engine, so I just had to drill 4 holes to make the stand arms effectively shorter.

2. Ordered tooling from Lock-N-Stitch. I have some time off over Christmas, and that is one of my plans. I was able to use two hammers to flatten the block where it had swollen around the crack. I put the peen of one hammer on the block and then tapped the hammer with a second hammer. Worked well, and I think that once the repair is complete, my block will look as good as new. The casting is 1/4" thick on the water jacket, in case anyone is interested.

EDIT: The second area I thought was cracked is not, so that's a victory.

3. Completed engine dis-assembly, or nearly. I do think my machine shop wants the cam out too. After I get the crack repaired, I may look into getting the crank journals line bored and other full rebuild type services. The connecting rod journals miked out to spec, so I may just have the shop polish and inspect everything, rather than rebuild. The speedometer shows 3k miles, so I am assuming 103k, but the engine looks pretty good for that sort of mileage. Who knows if the engine (or the speedometer) matches the car though. I bought it from a collector who had had several 1082s- including one cut flat behind the front doors and used as a farm truck.

I started to build a vibration damper pulley remover similar to pictures I found here, but got the pulley off before I was done with fabrication. I made one arm, and tapped it lightly with a dead blow hammer, and the pulley slid right off.

I'll post more once I get the engine to the machine shop. Separately, I should have the clutch back soon, and hopefully the distributor and carb sometime after the new year.

Ken, if you are going for a full rebuild on the engine, why not do it with a sound block? Why tempt fate with your compromised cracked one? I would think that a sound one that could be rebuilt would be a good investment and not too costly. The extra cost will be worth it.

(o{}o)

Ken,

I second John's suggestion. As the "the block.....had swollen around the crack" I'd be very suspicious about the integrity of the cast iron in that area.

Thanks Mal. My guess is there are probably few if any '37 6-cylinder engine blocks available. This is not necessarily bad news as the '38 and later engines were enlarged to 245 cu. in. and incorporated better pressure oiling. I would try and get the newest one available.

(o{}o)

JW and Mal, thanks for the input! Of note, the lock and stitch that I am using should actually restore the block to better than original strength in the cracked area. In spite of that, after consultation with a few sources, planned machine work is polishing the crank, new hardened exhaust valve seats installed, and a valve grind. I'll then re-assemble with new head studs, main and rod bearings, and rings. I'll also be installing new valve guides before sending it to the machine shop.

JW- I was actually surprised at the number of '37 blocks available. They aren't quite a dime a dozen, but not hard to come by. I did want to keep the car original, to include the original year of engine, as it is unique to that year. The car is not a full classic, but I am trying to restore it to that standard, or near to it.