Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Hey guys. I was wondering where I could get replacement rear fenders for a 1954 Clipper two door. Mine are rusted out and will need to be replaced. Thanks!

Finding a parts car would probably be the cheapest but there was a photo posted recently of one of Kanterskanter.com/packard/ warehouses and there were lots of NOS and used fenders shown. He might be a possibility and maybe Gerry at Packards Southwest too. gerry@packardssouthwest.com

Someone else can confirm but other than holes for the chrome trim I believe the 54 and 55 Clipper rear fenders are identical in shape so possibly a 55 fender could work. If that is the case Mike Dulinski is next door in Minnesota and probably has several 55 parts cars that might be able to supply some sheetmetal.

Great, I'll look into that. Thanks!

Also, where do the rear fenders attach to the body? It looks like they are both one solid piece...

On all postwar cars the rear fenders are stampings that were welded on and essentially became part of the body assy.

Rears are solid one piece. You can get new lowers from Classic 2 Current, you will need to fine tune the fits. Cut, weld, and good to go.

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Hm, so I'll have to do some cutting and welding to replace them. Oh well, thanks for the help.

No getting around the cutting and welding unfortunately.

If you get replacement panels from Classic2Current be aware that the wheel opening shape won't accommodate an original fender skirt. So if you want skirts, you'll either have to reshape the patch panel or make a custom skirt.

Classic2Current only has patch panels for the 4 door fender but you can make them work on a 2 door with some additional patching. The panels are about $100/each plus shipping.

I would go with the parts car fender if you can find one. I could not find rear fenders on any parts cars that weren't as badly rusted out as the one's I needed to replace. So I went the patch route but it is a lot of work to get a good fit.

FYI:Fronts usually bolt in on framed cars, rears are usually spot welded.
Patching might be the expedient approach depending how badly rotted. The parts you get may well need patched as well, so you're no further along. They'll have to be prepped anyway.
Take it back to good metal and see how many ft2 need replaced vs how much is left. If less than half, patch it. You need one good side to match the lines. If both are completely rotted on the bottom, you'll have no reference to match, except from another car. Plan on cutting out ALL the rust spots. If you don't and don't seal properly, they'll just pop back through over time and ruin your new paint job.
If you've never replaced a fender or whole quarter before, don't. Take it to a competent body shop. You'll quickly be in over your head and have two parts cars...
A bit of 18ga cold rolled, MIG or TIG, and some hand tools will go a long way but need experience to come out well...
Too many butchered DIY "restored" vehicles running around. Bondo is not panel adhesive and duct tape is not sealer. Metal screws and pop rivets aren't factory seams. Most of these auto shows make it look easy and don't do it right and only show some steps to sell some product.

Use the link in this post to see what Bryce is up against.