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I'm getting close to where I can start the beast up. The engine was rebuilt by the previous owner and he started it briefly (about 6 plus years ago). Over the years that I've had the car, I've shot oil in the cylinders and turned it over by hand using the hand crank takeoff on the crankshaft (spark plus removed) . I was thinking about using a large electric drill motor to turn the engine over via the hand crank takeoff to get some oil flowing before actually starting it. I'm interested in what others think about this approach and how many times should it turn over. Also, will I be able to see any oil pressure?

I plan on filling the radiator after I know I can get it started (I'll only let it run without coolant a for less than a minute). What should the radiator hoses and clamps look like to be period correct (a Napa P/N would be great)? I have a question as to what others use for coolant. I was thinking 1:1 antifreeze and thought I would put in some DCA4, which is a anti corrosion additive recommended by Cummins for their diesel engines.

All thoughts and other approaches welcomed and would be greatly appreciated.

Simple approach is to just crank it over on the starter motor with the ignition key off until you see movement of the oil pressure gauge which should happen within 2 or 3 revolutions.

I live where cold freezes are common in winter so I've used 50/50 mix of water and permanent antifreeze (the old style "green" or IAT type) year round for decades with never an issue. The AF already has an anti-corrosion package but I guess some extra wouldn't hurt as long as it's compatible.

Others are more versed on the ins and outs of prelubing but IMO it would be good to fill the passages etc and get some oil flowing near or to all the bearings before turning the engine.

There are fancy pumps some have suggested and others have used an inexpensive hand transfer pump to take oil from a container and pump directly into one of the galleries. That way you can start oil flowing thru the system and at least fill the oil pump so it didn't have to turn very long before pulling any oil up from the crankcase.

I would think there would be a convenient place on one of the galleries or passages you could remove a plug and install a hose fitting that would work for a pump connection. Pump in a quart or two to get the galleries full and maybe have some oil reach a few bearings before turning the engine.

Since your engine has been turned over periodically maybe not needed but I used the pump procedure on my fresh rebuild that had been sitting a lot of years. Just felt better knowing there was oil in at least some parts of the engine.

The oil pump on these engines is submerged below the oil surface so the pump is automatically filled with oil.

Running a motor without a filled cooling for the sake of seeing if it will run is not a good idea. It's the kind of thing hillbillies do.

I always filled the system with water so that any leaks could be diagnosed and plugged before installing anti-freeze. An additional benefit was that any residual dirt was harmlessly flushed without side effects.

The Three Wise Men above are this wonderful site's savviest. I could add nothing other than Simi Valley not subject to freezing temperature so your engine better served by just straight, soft water and a good quality rust and corrosion inhibitor. Have no knowledge of the inhibitor recommended by Cummins for Diesel engines, but have for decades used either Red Line Rust & Corrosion Inhibitor, and
since 1995, No-Rosion Cooling System Corrosion Inhibitor (no-rosion.com).
Under no circumstances use distilled water, which is ion-hungry and leaches minerals (like lead and solder from your radiator). Soft water is fine, and your engine will run cooler in the bargain. Antifreeze also seeps where water will not, another drawback in a vintage engine.

Antifreeze degrades over time and leaves a heat-transfer-inhibiting film on your cooling system walls, as does soluble oil, an outmoded practice.

For more information, visit No-Rosion's website, click on the tech info tab. And no, I don't work for nor have stock in No-Rosion. But when I find products that help preserve our wheeled alter egos, I sing their praises.

I want to thank everyone for their inputs of advice. I'll be ordering No-Rosion Cooling System Corrosion Inhibitor and the test strips. I've installed the hoses and will fill with water before starting. If all goes well the water will be drained and coolant set up with the No-Rosion system.

Based on the photo on No-Rosion web site, the test strips appear to be the same as what I use on the RV so I'm looking for to seeing them. i think I'll order MSDS sheets from Cummins & No-Rosion.

I turned the engine over yesterday (no spark plugs & gas) using the drill (about 30 seconds) then starter motor and had oil pressure. There was spark so I'm figuring that when I get the No-Rosion it should startup.

Thanks Again To All

I installed the radiator hoses, added water with Cummins anti-corrosion for protection, dumped in 5 gallons of gas, sucked gas up to the carburetor and then tried to start the engine. After several failed attempts I began to trouble shoot the non-starting problem. I eventually determined that the cork gasket, which was rock hard, for the glass sediment bowl was allowing the pump to suck air. A new gasket was made & installed.

After a few cranks the engine started, but ran a little rough. The oil pressure is probably too higg as it is ~ 20 psi at idle and climbs to 50 when rev'd up a bit. The rough idle settled out after a few minutes but seems a bit too rough so I'll check the timing and maybe look at the carburetor as the source. I ran the engine long enough so it got warm. It had a oil leak at the inlet of the filter. It also did not seem to charge when it was rev's up slightly.

I've ordered the No-Rosion and test strips and will replace the coolant when it arrives. I've also tighten the fitting on the oil line and hopefully the leak is history.

Next thing to tackle will be the exhaust system - need to figure out exactly what I need and how best to approach it.

Again thanks for all of the advise and words of wisdom.

TO ALL OUR SERVICE MEN & WOMEN, VETS HERE & GONE THANKS FOR YOUR SERVICE AND THE SACRIFICES YOU AND YOUR FAMILIES MADE!!!

When I rebuilt my engine, I had to re-flash the generator field because it had been sitting so long. Simple procedure, typically involving shorting two leads momentarily, although not sure the exact procedure for your car. Congrats!

Thanks for the heads up. Is that the same as re polarizing?