Re: Help! water outlet/radiator housing leaking again
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"Where the head and housing meet it is not flush, small imperfections."
Brenda, My '41 120(similar setup) had that problem, also the housing face wasn't flat. So I filed the surfaces on the head and on the thermostat housing to remove as much of the imperfections as possible, as well as flatten the surface. Initially I made a thick cork gasket but more recently used a good quality paper gasket. Also used Loctite non hardening gasket cement with a coat brushed onto the head, a coat on both sides of the gasket(messy) and a coat on the housing face. Also tightened everything down at once, no 24 hour wait, and wiped off any excess gasket cement that squeezed out. Worked for me.
Posted on: 2017/5/18 1:17
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Mal
/o[]o\ ==== Bowral, Southern Highlands of NSW, Australia "Out of chaos comes order" - Nietzsche. 1938 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD 1941 One-Twenty Club Coupe - SOLD 1948 Super Eight Limo, chassis RHD - SOLD 1950 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD What's this? Put your Packard in the Packard Vehicle Registry! Here's how! Any questions - PM or email me at ozstatman@gmail.com |
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Re: Help! water outlet/radiator housing leaking again
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Home away from home
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It is common for a stamped steel part in the cooling system to rust after 65 years and even Packards are not immune. Your T-stat housing has a/some pinholes in it and anti freeze is very good at finding them.
Whoever told you to let sealant sit for 24 hrs or any of similar rubbish should go back to a little red wagon. I've installed innumerable t-stat housings without sealer, bolted them down after cleaning both surfaces, the t-stat (no sealer needed) , filled immediately and driven away. Seldom when rechecking it do I have to retighten. This is not rocket science. Kanter Auto makes a new housing, see our site. Enjoy your car.
Posted on: 2017/5/18 1:18
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Re: Help! water outlet/radiator housing leaking again
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Home away from home
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I would suggest this bronze housing. They might be close to you. I also had leaks with mine, and switched to this and am happy. A couple people on the site use them.
SoCal Packard TstatHousing But like Mal said, the two surfaces that mate together should be as clean and flat as possible. This might require some sanding or filing. This is a classic example of something that seems so easy, "only 2 bolts!" but can be frustrating and difficult to get perfect. Did you try sitting the housing on the mating surface and see how it looks with no gasket? Are both surfaces perfectly flat? Is the housing warped where the 2 bolts go through? Hang in there, you will get it right.
Posted on: 2017/5/18 2:38
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1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1953 Caribbean, 1969 912, 1990 Miata
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Re: Help! water outlet/radiator housing leaking again
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Home away from home
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Thank you. I went on the site and can't find a way to order it from that site. I emailed them. Any suggestions?
Posted on: 2017/5/18 8:58
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1953 Packard Clipper Deluxe
She starts on the first crank in the morning and purrs like a kitten all day. |
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Re: Help! water outlet/radiator housing leaking again
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Forum Ambassador
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Before you go ahead and finish up this job, I really wish you'd go back and reconsider the advice you got from myself and one or two others about staying with the 160? thermostat until such time as your driving experiences in warm weather and stressful situations shows that your cooling system has the capacity to use a 180?.
Posted on: 2017/5/18 9:05
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Re: Help! water outlet/radiator housing leaking again
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As Mal and Tobs said make sure the gasket surfaces are flat. The old gaskets stick and tiny bits pull off and stay on the surface when removed. They are almost invisible and even after sanding can have the edges smoothed so that are not as noticeable to the touch but can still cause new gaskets to leak. Use a putty knife or gasket scraper and carefully scrape the head surface flat before laying the new gasket in place.
If you are replacing the outlet then you don't need to worry there but when reusing the older steel outlets, aside from any gasket material adhering, if the surface has corroded and pits developed I have had luck using JBWeld to lay a thin skim coat on the cleaned surface and when dry, sanding the JB Weld and entire outlet surface flat. The surface under the radiator hose has also been a trouble spot with corrosion and rust holes. Water can seep under the hose even if the clamp is tight. JB Weld also does a good job in repair there too but replacing is better if the entire outlet is in that poor of condition.
Posted on: 2017/5/18 9:22
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Howard
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Re: Help! water outlet/radiator housing leaking again
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Home away from home
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I have been putting the gasket onto the housing. Should it be put onto the head? Do I put the thermostat on first and then the gasket and housing? finally, do I put sealant around the thermostat (as well as around the edges).? Final details. This will be my final try before having it towed to a radiator shop. Ouch! I will use Loctite as recommended. Any other details are most welcomed. I want this to be the greatest outcome. #1 sticking to it until successful. I kept the 160 and can easily put it on.
Posted on: 2017/5/18 9:32
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1953 Packard Clipper Deluxe
She starts on the first crank in the morning and purrs like a kitten all day. |
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Re: Help! water outlet/radiator housing leaking again
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Home away from home
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Thanks, it is a small pin hole that leaks coolant where the flat surface meets the cylinder line by the bolt. Just started yesterday, probably from tightening it too much??
I will get Loctite today, a file and JB Weld, any particular kind, they have many. I will sand it and cover the line all around the housing, using enough to hopefully make a good weld.
Posted on: 2017/5/18 9:36
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1953 Packard Clipper Deluxe
She starts on the first crank in the morning and purrs like a kitten all day. |
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Re: Help! water outlet/radiator housing leaking again
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Home away from home
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No need to worry about putting the gskt on the head or on the housing, it's like which piece of bread should the ham go on, top or bottom slice.
If there is a slight leak, no need to have it towed, just driive it and the tiny seepage will not destroy the engine. Too much worrying! My guess is if you remove the neck and sandblast it, then hold your hand over one end and go out into the sunlight you'll look inside and see a tiny speck of light where the hole is. done it numerous times. NO sandblaster handy, just do as above anyway. Locktite for what, the bolts are not going to walk out on their own. This car was built before Locktite was invented. There is a torque spec on the bolts, if it still leaks after that much torque your problem is elsewhere
Posted on: 2017/5/18 10:26
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