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Yes, sorry, the wheel bolt patterns are the same, but the ends of the axles are different, much larger for the ambulance, so they require a different hub (or one machined with a larger cone as mine were).

OK, everything arrived, but I was told we also need the differential gears, the larger spider gears that attach to the axles. Max Merritt has those and they are on order. Hopefully shipped tomorrow.

Time seems to stand still when the car is in the shop.

AXLE AND CARRIER: Done and she rolls quiet as a mouse. No more clunks, either.

CARBURETOR: At long last, the Stromberg is on this morning and meters the fuel to perfection, idles at 375 RPM per book specs. We did a test drive and it provides more fuel, much more acceleration than the poor old Carter did. I am a happy man. We put the bowl filter back on, too.

THROTTLE GUARD: I'm driving to Seattle on Wednesday, 180 miles +, so we'll add the Throttle Guard when I get back next week.

SWAY BAR: John didn't like what I did with the links, so we took one link off, ordered 4 new rubbers for the upper cups, and will reinstall with the black super fast drying 3M urethane goop packed between the parts when I get back.

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Who has the rubbers for the upper links of the swaybar? I didn't think the uppers came apart? Thanks

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There aren't any rubbers for the upper links in the 1940, 41 and 42 models. The only time it comes apart is when it fails. And that is a real problem.

Packard use a sway bar that had a flattened "coin end" rather than one with a hole. The link was made with a cup at the top and on one side an oval slot was cut running vertically.

When the sway bar was made the coin-end was inserted into the vertical slot and then then rotated to horizontal. Vulcanized rubber filled the cup and a small freeze-type plug was pressed into place over the top of the cup. Thus, the sway bar was molded to the links at either end.

Problem is that over time two things occur: (1) the rubber breaks down and allows a metal-to-metal contact/rubbing inside the link (2) after consistent rubbing the coin-end rubs through the cup and breaks apart. This was a poor design that Packard soon recognized and changed after WWII. Please see the photos attached.

There is no reliable way to fix that link connection.

Someone did make a fit-it-kit, but it involved welding the cup back to the original vertical oval then stuffing the cup with two, rubber plugs. And rather than holding together with a freeze plug it was held in place with a cotter key.

I've been working (intermittently) on a much better solution. That is a brand-new sway bar using the design that Packard went to after WWII. I've gone through several proto-type bars to get a design that would fit all models of 1940, 41 and 42 Packards.

If I wasn't so busy running the restoration of the Packard Proving Grounds, then this project would have been done several years ago. But, stay tuned - I am close.

--Roger--

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At one time Ron Carpenter was rebuilding the upper ends of the sway-bar, you might give him a call. 1 (925) 980 0208

Here is a link to Ron Carpenter's solution from a thread a many years ago.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... um=1&post_id=103858#forumpost103858

The 3M Window Weld 08609 is available from Auto-Zone for $27.
The rubbers that go inside the cup are available from Steele Rubber 30-0406-33 (4/car about $6 ea). The weld rubber is tough.

They also have the rubber grommets for the bottom of the link 70-0274-33 (4/car).

Son John's solution may be better. On the sway bar that snapped (wrong sway bar where the end pointed out instead of in), he put the tip of the sway bar in the cup, then worked a thick rubber piece with a hole in the center over the tip. I'm sure it wasn't easy. Then he filled the bottom and the top of the cup with weld and sealed it using Ron's caps and cotter pins. In this way, there is no metal-on-metal contact. The edges of the tip are not wearing directly on the edges of the opening of the cup. When I get back from Seattle, the new rubbers from Steele will be here and we'll try some combo.

But Roger's solution, which is the solution of the cars in 1948 (Packard finally figured it out) would be best, so the bottom of the link that attaches to the frame with rubber grommets, attaches to the sway bar in the same fashion.

Joe
Excuse me if I'm stepping out of bounds here, but you seem to be trying to make your car correct in every way. The screws holding the side pans to the fenders should be slot pan-head machine screws, not Phillips head.

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Absolutely, West. John let me keep the 2 holding the headlight junction block, but the others had to go for something brighter.

I will sneak some new, shiny correct ones on there, but I'm glad I'll never have the car judged by the tail-pipe peepers again. Last time they said, "Well, it's restorable." It's a good thing, after working half the night to shine it up, by the judging time of day, I had drunk a G&T.

"It's always something," (said with a woman's voice).
One of these days, we'll admit that that's the truth.

Happy Packarding (or Placarding, if you're a computer spelling correction program)

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Flackmaster: see attached

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Indeed, rendition of the early version with NO vent windows.