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Check out the clutch chatter articles from various service letters to get an idea of the purpose and importance.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/serviceinfo/catindex.php?cat=16&series=7

From introduction on the 1600-1 models to finally being installed on just about all models there were several versions of the assy, each a bit stronger and slightly different from the previous version. Improvements were either retrofitted or the newest installed when a previous version was replaced. By the end of production of the 21st series it became just a straight solid rod with rubber cushions at each end.

There have been various posts about bent rods or deteriorating rubber on the prewar versions and I have no idea if NOS snubbers are still available. I believe there are some posts where flackmaster came up with a heavier repro version that might be a good option. Maybe check with him, to see if he still makes them and what kind of brackets or if additional items might be needed.

Is this a snubber? If so, I have one at my shop where I'll be for another day or so in case you need it. It's in the classified ads of my site below and is listed as 1939-1941 since I didn't know its name.

Update: The end with the bracket connected to a small cross-member (which I believe I also have) and the threaded end went through a hole on a tab in the casting of the transmission. I've seen transmissions with and without the cast tab so perhaps it wasn't used on all models.

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yes to all of the above. its just a vulcanized brace, nothing fancy. see picture on steele website, I have one (steele) on the shelf.

DAF

The rod in post 102 looks a bit short for the snubber but maybe so. Don't remember seeing one like that in the service letters but could be one of the revisions. It almost looks more like the brace used on some models at each side of the radiator cradle between it and the frame.

Early prewar snubbers were two flat bars with vulcanized rubber joining them in the middle. Later ones had an affair that looks similar to tie rod end pieces bolting to brackets and joining the transmission to the frame. Postwar snubbers introduced sometime in the 21st series just used a round rod and rubber cushions.

Here are the later prewar and the post war items.

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Thanks all for the information!

Snubber installed, and it appears to shift a little smoother.

I am also going through the process of trying to eliminate a rich running condition. I previously put in new wires and plugs (about two years ago) and checked the point gap. I was unable to verify the timing dynamically. I set it today, by setting the flywheel to the proper point (4 deg BTDC for my car with the HC head) and then inspected the points to ensure they were just opening. Everything was dead on, so good news there. The next step is to pull off the recently rebuilt Stromberg and verify the power valve isn't leaking. I photocopied the service directions at the AACA library on Thursday, so not flying totally blind here.

Ken, re ignition timing, in the absence of timing dynamically with a timing light, you can improve a little on the method you used (visual observation of points opening) by clipping a 6-volt bulb between the moveable point and ground and turning the ignition on. The bulb will indicate the exact moment of point opening. Hold the rotor against the direction of rotation just to prevent inadvertent motion as you rotate the distributor body back and forth.

I also recommend marking the vibration damper with timing marks after making a pointer out of stiff wire and attaching it to the front cover. Having the marks on the damper makes checking and setting ignition timing much easier. JWL

JW and Dave - thanks for the tips! I have previously considered the wire trick, but it hasn't moved to the top of the priority list yet.

Looking for a little help. The attached picture shows my battery door. I'm missing a tab on the right side of the picture. The passenger side of the door when installed. Can someone post a picture of the tab, or tell me if they've fabbed up a tab to replace the original?

I'm also working on fixing the adjustable seat. It's been locked forward ever since I bought the car. I removed the linkage for the pull rod, and the spring that holds tension on the release bracket, and still no movement. Does anyone have experience freeing these up? I'm also surprised that sliding rails appear to be alloy, vice steel. I'm assuming it is original to the car based on the way it fits. I can post pictures if anyone is interested.

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Don't know if your seat tracks are similar to the 41-47 Clipper but if there is an inner track the seat frame fastens to separated from the outer track which is bolted to the floor by several ball bearings running in grooves on each side, I found there was a lot of dried grease which had collected dirt and crud. The dirt etc was hard and there was enough accumulation to have gotten wedged so tightly the balls couldn't roll.

The tracks did not separate without grinding off a stop which is there to limit movement and prevent separation in use so rather than chance damaging the tracks tearing them apart I soaked them in solvent and then used small pick tools etc to loosen up all the crud and and then blew out and applied fresh grease. That seemed to solve the movement issue.

A couple of other things you might check if your seat has them. If there is a wire that stretches across to the other side to release a passenger side catch, make sure the wire has not stretched and the release on the passenger side is also working freely. Some seats have a long rod with a small sprocket on each end which meshes with perforations in the tracks to keep the movement synchronized on both sides. If you have that setup make sure the clips which holds the rod to the track at each end has not worn or loosened and allowed one side to slip out of a perforation and let the tracks get cocked or offset side to side causing a bind.