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I got a new tank from Motor City Classics, was also able to get new mounting straps and a sender in one package deal. Haven't installed it yet.
John

People seem very keen on cutting up their cars for convenience sake and, of course, it's their choice. Personally, I could not make myself cut a hole in the trunk floor just on the off-chance that I would need to access the sender. I would prefer to just do it right in the first place and expect it to last many years. Your tank will be out anyway so no point testing the old sender when you will very likely need to replace it. A new one is inexpensive and comes with a new retainer and gasket.

As for trying to repair your old tank, it appears to be in far worse condition than the one in my 1965 Cadillac which was only just barely salvageable with pinholes rather than large gaping openings. The Pinholes could be be brazed but the only way to fix a tank with holes is to cut a large access hole into it, sandblast the inside throughly, clean it out and make any repairs, and weld the hole shut again - THEN seal it. Trust me, if I could have bought a new tank it would have been half the cost of the repair but for my Cadillac, reproductions are not made so grab one for your Packard while you can.

I installed the tank from Motor City Classics in my '56 Clipper. It required an additional bend to the filler pipe to properly position the filler opening. Attached are pictures of the tanks and the template I used for the bend.

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Kanter doesn't have any more tanks, so Motor City Classics it is. I wonder if they'll cut shipping costs by shipping a windshield at the same time??

Don, I likely will not cut a hole in the trunk. Dropping the tank didn't take any more than 5 minutes, and that's coming from someone who's never done it before. It took forever to drain the gas because it was just dribbling out, but the actual dropping part was a breeze. If I ever had a problem with the sender then I'd just drain and drop.

For reference, here are a couple of pictures of the tank. Top has no undercoating, whereas the bottom is caked with it (as is most of the underframe of the car). No holes in the tank. The leak is from the collar (bung?) that is not sealed. What looks like a hole is actually just missing undercoating from messing with the drain plug. See the exposed metal where the strap and cushion was. To be clear, the tank had gas in it and was only leaking from around the plug/collar.

-Kevin

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I see. I had wondered if that's what it was but it sure looked like holes! I hope the plug came out easily without the bit turning that it threads into.

Typically any undercoating is put onto the assembled car so the top would indeed be bare. When reinstalling (or installing the new one), be sure it has a good ground to the frame. If it doesn't, the gauge won't work.

Don - unfortunately the plug itself is stuck in the collar or bit. That part (the collar) spins in the tank now, but does not come out. That's why I'm wondering if I can weld that part back to the tank. That should seal it right back up.

But of course I'd have to be sure I can get the drain plug itself out before trying to reattach the collar. Now that the tank is out I should be able to take care of that much easier.

**56Clippers....I should mention that the pictures and diagram are very helpful. If I have to replace the tank I'll be referring to that info.


-Kevin

I believe the threaded bung was not welded to the tank, more likely brazed. For repair silver-soldering might be an alternative to brazing. But regardless of the method it's potentially dangerous work, just my opinion but I'd pay a professional the few $s it should cost.

I don't have any qualms about a pro doing it. Just need to find one. The one radiator shop I found doesn't have a working number anymore, so I'll have to keep looking.

The way the fittings always seem to turn in the sheet metal if you do not hold the tank side when the plug has rusted to the fitting, I don't think they were fastened with any filler substance such as braze or solder. More likely a press in type fitting with a flange on the inside that is tightly pressed or crimped over the sheet metal.

This photo Ross took of the tank inside looks to me like a crimped over edge.

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Once it has turned in the tank, there is not much you can do about it short of opening up the tank and soldering from the inside. I tried brazing one once from the outside but it didn't work.