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Your bezel would be called good used by many. Most of the time the bezels look like this one with one or both ears about to break off or has already done so.

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Oz.

458?

Quote:Riki,

At the time I thought it was, not so sure now?

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No, not yet but I may be looking into it soon as I’m working on both my 1954 and my 1956.

Progress on the trunk lock: this wire pin is the only thing holding the lock cylinder in place proper. However, the escutcheon does not rotate out of the way enough to actually remove the cylinder. To remove the escutcheon plate, gently but firmly pull it away from the lock body while rotating it back and forth. Do not try to rotate it past its stops, you are only trying to rotate the retainer against the spring force to let it slip apart from the rod. Once the escutcheon is off, bend and remove the wire pin, pick the lock (if needed), and push it out the front. End result shown.

Edit: Reinstallation is done in reverse; the only tricky part is the spring. The spring is charged by ~2 turns and it tends to slip out of the brass retainer. I recommend to pull the spring about 1/2 a turn thru the retainer, then turn the retainer 2 1/2 turns from the spring neutral position which should line it up with the rod correctly (more or less) when the escutcheon is in the closed position.

Good job! Mike Dulinski can help you with the rear window as he has many cars but he’s been something of a ghost recently and might take a while to respond.

Picture 3.

If you can remove those pins holding the brass key pins. Then it's easy to make a key.

Key cylinder..

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The wafers? I leave them in, insert the key blank, mark around them with a ultra fine point Sharpie so I know where to file (in between the marker marks) and then take the blank out and file the grooves down with a square needle file turned diagonally and test it often to get it exactly right.