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Update: I got all of the cylinders topped up with Diesel fuel and I'm planning to leave it like that for about a month.

I noticed some more electrical quirks:
1) There are two yellow wires that run off the same resistor terminal. The wiring diagram only has one (17-Y); the other runs over by the generator and is disconnected...
2) There is a dark green wire separate from any wiring harness that runs into the engine bay from the Acc terminal on the starter switch into the (looking from front of car) right top side of the engine bay, it was clipped off. Note that I don't mean 34-DK.G., but they are indeed attached to the same terminal.
3) Speaking of Dark Green, my "Main Rear Harness Connector" seems to be missing the wire 33-DK.G. which is for the back-up lamps. Does anyone know if back-up lamps were or weren't standard on all 1955's? My taillights do have the white back-up lenses but I've not checked (I'm not sure I know how) to see if there are bulbs wired up.

This is more of a "food for thought" post as none of this stuff is remotely important right now, but if you have any thoughts feel free to add.

The 17-Y terminal on the resistor is the one terminal in the engine compt that is hot ONLY when the key is in the right or run position. Any other ign key switched power sources in the engine compt are hot in both the run and the left accessory position. If you were working on an early 56 the first guess for an extra yellow wire on 17-Y would have been for the electric shift. Packard picked up power for the relays at that point with a second yellow wire before changing it to a white wire on later production.

No idea on a 55 but sometimes small factory accessory items were added. The emergency brake handle indicator is one such option but that wire was usually black. If not factory then something a previous owner only wanted on when the engine was running was added and later removed. Same thing was probably done with the extra green wire on the ign switch. Some accessory or aftermarket item installed and later removed.

Back up lights were optional on Clippers but since the backup light ready housings were not easy to swap it is odd you have the housing for the light but not the wire. Some optional Clipper backup lights were separate and mounted on the vertical panel below the trunk lid. If you have an Ultramatic do you have a dk green wire on the neutral safety/backup light switch screwed to the steering column a few inches away from the firewall? On a standard trans, the switch would be on a bracket where the two gearshift levers exit the steering column. The bulb sockets or at least the wiring to them are accessed from the trunk interior so you should be able to see a socket or a wire with a molded on weatherproof grommet running thru a hole where the reverse light would be if it was present from the factory.

So my wiring has a slight case of both the rodent chews and wire cutter snippage. The situation is:

- On the neutral/reverse switch, I have 2 browns and ONE dk green, snipped off. I already have the browns figured out but I don't see a dark green anywhere, let alone two. That's not all she wrote though: I have a dk green and dark blue disconnected near the coil, pretty sure those went to the oil pressure and water temp sensors.

- Aside from the dk green accessory wire mentioned previously, I only have one dk green running thru the firewall (assuming every wire is running thru in that one spot) and I don't have any snipped ones under the dash. You may wonder how my stop lamp switch works if that be the case, and it's because they used a lt green wire for 9-DK.G., no idea why...

Attached is the back of the car (looks like it has back up lenses) and a picture of the two under-dash wiring harnesses. Dk green is conspicuously absent from the one on the left.

FYI to anyone reading, electrical schematics are Page 51-53 herepackardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/servicemanual5556/Sect08_Electrical.pdf

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just noticed you need a back window. I'm parting a 53 with that selfsame window which you can have if you come and take it out. I'm in MD

Minor update: went looking in the trunk to check the backup lights situation and found that they're wired up, but not a wire connected to the main wiring harness. Instead, it's a black wire that runs UNDER the car, like up over the gas tank towards the front. Not even gonna try to trace that one down... at least right now. Looks like the backup lights are aftermarket, I assume dealer-added or something, seeing how many times I've read on here about cars with "impossible" options combinations equipped. This would also explain why there's that dark green wire screwed onto the ACC post running thru the firewall.

Update: It's got a window!

The engine in it is still locked up. I don't know the history of the car that well except that the inspection sticker is '94 and the mileage is 93k. So I don't know if it's frozen from a mechanical issue or just from disuse. When I bought it it had full black oil with no signs of contaminants.

A month or so ago I sprayed a bunch of PB Blaster into each cylinder, and later filled each cylinder with Diesel fuel. Of course, two of the cylinders didn't take much and being a V8 they surely weren't coated all the way. However the oil level has risen about the distance from E to F (it started at F and now it is far above F) so clearly a lot or all of the Diesel has seeped past the piston rings.

I've heard of people cranking on the fan pulley bolt with an impact driver but I don't want to do that for fear of damaging something. As Howard mentioned, even a turning engine can have some pushrod-bending stuck valves hidden inside. I'm thinking of taking off a cylinder head to see if the pistons and cylinders even look okay. On that note, does anyone know what the "cylinder head lifter J-4159" does? (Page 20 here, last paragraph.) I mean it's obviously to lift the head, but how does it do that and can I remove the head without a tool like it? Or use a different tool instead?

P.S. The most keen of eyes will notice in this picture that the trim on the sides of the back window is from a '53, not '55. To be honest, the studs on mine snapped from rust (and I don't want to JB Weld new ones on right now) so I used some 53's that Ross was kind enough to give me.

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Someone recently suggested getting some bulk oil and filling the crankcase to the top or as full as it can possibly get, then let it sit. I haven't tried it myself but it I did, I would let it sit for weeks rather than days, then drain it back down to the proper level. Fill the tops of the cylinders too and lightly screw the plugs back in.

Whatever you do, don't force it and if you do succeed in freeing it up, turn it over by hand numerous times with the spark plugs out and be sure to use an external fuel source with fresh gasoline if you decide to try to actually start it. Drain the oil and put in new, with a new filter, first.

Good advice. Tomorrow I'm planning on trying to take off the right-side head to look at the cylinders. If I'm able to get it off and the cylinders look fine enough, I'll take off the other head and try to tap the pistons with a block to get them unstuck. Taking the heads off also allows me to make sure the valves are unstuck without risking hitting the pistons with them by tapping them in place. The crankcase idea is not a bad one; it's just that the engine has been stuck for like 6 months and at this point I'd rather try to look in it directly so I know what I'm dealing with.

Definitely I'll need to change the motor oil before I run it. I'm not as concerned with running old oil for a minute as much as that it's overfilled by probably 2 inches on the dipstick from the Diesel and obviously thinned out likewise (probably about 2 quarts of Diesel in there now). Putting fresh 15W30 in it will cost a whole $15.

I thought that Marvel mystery oil was the standard "go to" for stuck pistons. I have heard of running diesel in the crank case to clean out the innards.

Where did you find the rear window and where did you source the gasket?