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JPGs are standard for the Internet so shouldn't be a problem but sometimes cameras and mobile devices put characters into the file name that aren't allowed. Did you get a security error or did you simply not press the Upload button once you selected the file?

I’m not sure on a ’37, but when I did the top on my ’32 there was a metal trim piece that needed to be installed that over lapped the metal and the fabric. It went around the outside perimeter and was installed such that a portion was on the metal body and a portion rested on the soft top. I’ve attached a drawing of a side view of the metal trim (Note on a Model A they would have used a flexible welting material.). The trim piece gets nailed (ref. red nail in bottom image) in place. The top image shows a flap that is bent over to cover up the nails. A sealant is used between the trim piece and the metal/fabric section. I filled the channel in the trim piece with some sealant before I bent it over. I don’t recall what I used for a sealant. It could have been either a black polyurethane or an automotive seam sealer (Most likely it was the polyurethane). I haven't had any problems with the roof leaking when I wash the car.

Attach file:

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  Soft Top_0001.jpg (74.06 KB)


  Soft Top Trim.JPG (289.72 KB)

Thank,s Marty for the picture and the advice. I hope I can make mine look that good. Now I have to wait for the painting before doing this, So it will probably be the end of January as there is some body work to do as well.

I've heard Flexseal works good at sealing auto tops of this nature, but don't have any first hand experience.

Bullsh—tr needs input to let him know if the trim piece is metal (like my ’32) or a flexible welting like on a Ford. Then he can make a decision as to whether he wants it to be original and if metal he needs to locate the correct replacement.

IMO - Otherwise he can use welting or I think metal may be available but not quiet an exact Packard match.

The original material around the edges is metal. Nailed through the canvas to the wood structure that supports it. I too am curious what Packard sealed that joint with - mine also has silicone, and leaks.

Following.

Flex Seal is junk.

It's a weird system. Originally the material had a flash like sealer under the Pantasote. Today's equivalent would be butyl putty through which the tacks pass to hold the material down. The finishing strip is not part of the seal system as water is not intended to puddle at the corners.

The aluminum rain gutter on the '32 gets nailed on. I wasn't sure of the best way to handle that. I use automotive seam sealer on it with stainless steel nails which were counter sunk (counter holes filled with Bondo type material. I'm 99% sure that I use polyurethane sealer on the top. After the top was installed I flooded it with water with no leaks then or since. IMO silicone is way overrated. For water proof sealing polyurethane is the only way to go.

I think the metal trim is available Taco Metals & Restoration Supply Company. May not quiet an exact Packard match. In any case one needs to use stainless steel nails to prevent rusting.

Metal molding of my 1934 Eight roof was retained with brass screws.

Brass Screws sound like a "Better mouse trap."

The former owner had removed mine. It still had some nails in it and it looked like a pretzel. It took me about 15 hours to straighten it out.