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Got the locks back from the locksmith. There were able to make me keys for the ignition and the glove box. The door handle was rust welded internally. So that one was a no go.

They made me two sets of keys with the correct key shapes. All and all a bargin for $40.

Once I get ahold of a better locking handle, I'll have them rekey it match the ignition key.

I was able to get most of the dash wired this evening.

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Soak it in trans oil

And add .diesel oil and acetone

Let soak as long as it takes.


A little heat might help too


Yap.
Right keys.

B1 and B2

On the question you had earlier of using the fender skirts or not, when you view the car as a whole IMO, the factory approach actually looks rather decent on that body style. I do think they need to be well fitted with something like the factory chrome accents to take away the slab sided look though.

Just a cent and a half worth, but if you wanted the covers and could get the home made pieces to fit well, even if original accent trim cannot be found perhaps you could come up with another treatment along the lines of an extra Packard crest emblem or maybe just some plain chrome strips to break up the large empty piece of metal.

Hi

My opinion, for what it's worth: For 1930's cars equipped with fender skirts, a circular emblem centered on the rear wheel and speed-streak spears are always de rigueur to complete the Streamline Moderne look. Parts to complete the look don't have to be factory original since the car is already modified.

If the Jaguar engine proves troublesome, a good alternative might be the AMC 232/258 derived 4.0L ohv six cylinder found in Jeep Cherokee Sports. Some even can be found with manual shift overdrive transmissions.

Steve

I'll have to revisit the look with the fender skirts. Perhaps with some type of trim they would look nicer to me. But currently they just look like an odd add on.

So, the speedo that was in the car was an incorrect one and Flackmaster was nice enough to provide me with a correct one.

I'm in the process of finishing the dash wiring and I went to install the speedo and noticed an issue. The "old" one that was in there only had two bulb holders. One for general lighting and one for hi-beam indicator.

The correct speedo appears to have two for general lighting and a different style holder for the hi-beam.

What does the correct hi-beam bulb holder look like? It was not in the car when I got it and isn't the same style as other bulb holders, so I have no point of reference.

See photo for the are where this bulb attaches.

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I have not found the bulb yet, (I broke the old one during disassembly) but it is a 51 type, pg. 107 of the parts list, Part # 223889 (50.960) 6V .8 CP Mazda 51
The bulb base is just a cylindrical holder for the bulb. It has a pigtail wire going into it. When I tried to remove it from the housing to photograph it the solder joint broke so it gave me an excuse to take it apart and re-solder it and give you a better idea of the assembly. I have included shots of the part and its wiring. It inserts into the female part on your speedo housing and is held by the 3 tines.
Bob J.

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Thanks for the pics. I am sure that's going to be a a difficult style to find.

Kev, while you’re searching for the unicorn how about a modern socket with solid copper wire ring soldered on, or a snap-ring that fits the OD of the socket tight enough to hold the socket from backing-out. An alternate to the copper wire scheme would be a brass washer . . . the ID is semi-critical, but it really only needs to be the correct OD in three locations.

dp

Do not get hung up on worrying about exact parts. Just look for a bulb base socket that will take a 51 bulb and fit into the .480" ID of that holder. The ring that snaps into the fingers is nice but you can McGiver a way to ground the socket into the speedo housing. Remember this is just a high beam indicator that will be lit likely less than 1 hour in your lifetime so it does not need to be serviced much. The tunnel is the hard part and that is already in the speedo head.
Bob J.