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Depending on the diameter of the opening you might also be able to reshape the fingers to grab onto a modern socket which usually has the mount at the front and just pushes into a bare hole like the top bulb. RI wiring has a variety of bare sockets along with a selection of the needed internal pieces if you cannot find something universal out of your collection or on Amazon.

Using a modern socket, since the bright light indicator is only a point opening with presumably a red cellophane filter in front possibly you could have the bulb a farther distance away without causing any issues. Attach a cardboard or even a metallic tube at the end of the socket to extend to the color filter to cover the bulb and confine or shield the light from other parts of the enclosure. Packard occasionally did that with other lights.

I'll poke around and see what sockets may fit. Odd that is the only socket like that. All the other ones are the same as on my 54.

I have this week off from work, so trying to make a big push on completing the wiring.

All the under dash wiring is complete except for a couple of switches for the fuel pump, the electric choke and the hi-beam light.

All the engine wiring is complete, as well as the horn and the brake light switch.

Just need to complete the headlights, horns and parking lights in the front. Then I can move onto then rear wiring.

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Bob, what is the O.D. of that bulb holder socket?

Barrel OD-0.410"
Barrel ID-0.365"
Collar OD-0.520"
Overall length-0.920"
Collar to bulb end length-0.700"

Thanks!

Looks like a BA9s socket should do the trick.

Kev, since you are running 12v you could also use a long body indicator light similar to this. Any number of styles and dimensions are available. The long body is probably able to get the light source right up to the filter and next to the rear side of the display hole. White would work with the existing color filter or if the filter is faded or nonexistent just get a red indicator.

Here is one with a body that could probably fit in a gutted old incandescent bulb socket. Turn the socket backwards so the normally wide mounting end could work with the retaining prongs and if needed add a filler or sleeve to take up any space in the cluster hole.

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Finished the wiring up front. Headlights, horn, and parking lights.

Left a pig tails in place for future front turn signals.

When I pulled apart the headlights to rewire, I noticed that Mark had converted them to modern bulbs.

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The problem to using modern bulbs with original reflectors and lenses is the alignment of the bulb filaments and lenses. Correct alignment is critical for a good beam pattern. I tried fitting H4 bulbs in vintage headlights with the separate lenses and reflectors. I could not get the lights to focus correctly and gave up on the project. Maybe some here have had better luck with LED bulbs.