Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

No bending. Just a lot of cut and hope, repeat. Not much in the way of patterns to copy. Headliner top bows were there already but I had to cut and splice on 4 ends that were too badly damaged.

I will re-look at the top of the bow that is affixed to the windshield. The two shops that said they could make a new wooden piece for the windshield both said they were going to bend a series for birch pieces to make the curve. Both were over $1000 for the piece.

Thanks

post a photo of your existing piece so I can see which of the 4 pieces you need

You can build a wooden box and get a steam generator to steam your own wood. Though getting the molds cut properly for the shape takes some practice, it might not be too difficult for just a single bend. Make a few then glue together.

Excellent pictures and an education for me. I once owned a 1608 12 cyl Limo. I was prepared to do any and everything to restore it except the wood. It was a puzzle that I was unwilling to take on. I sold that 1608 to a guy who latter rebodied it to a 4dr convertible. I never saw the finish product.

My 1202 needs 1 top bow in the convertible top. Can I cut from a larger piece, or does it need to be steamed and bent? I am going for authenticity.

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With such a clean break, I would remove the wood bow, glue the pieces back together, drill two holes top to bottom and insert wood plugs through in two places, trim and stain. Replace the metal, tap and rescrew in place.
The bow would not need to be replaced.

I agree on using the same wood piece and gluing it together. I would suggest using exterior glue for the wood with the wooden dowels. Securely clamp the wood after you put the pieces together.

Gar

Agreed. A quality wood glue like Tite-Bond III would be perfect. When dry, the glue is stronger than the wood.

Use more glue than you think you will need. Brush it into the fibers if needed, you want full coverage on both sides. Clamp it firmly in multiple spots. Wipe away any glue squeeze-out away with a damp cloth before it dries. Leave it clamped and undisturbed for 48 hrs to cure.

Probably no need to even have to fix the finish as the crack should be nearly invisible.

But if you want to "belt and suspenders" it even further, you can always drill all the way through it and use some dowel rod to pin it in place. But I don't think it would be needed.

I agree with Titebond III. I would stay away from dowels and pins as they will probably weaken the existing wood.

Because of the angles, you will need to make a jig to ensure the parts come together correctly when clamped. MAKE SURE you test by dry clamping everything to make sure they come together exactly and perfectly aligned or you will not get the strength needed at the joint. You will only get one shot once you put the glue on and clamp it and it dries. If things slip when clamping - stop before the glue starts to dry and wipe off glue with plenty of water so you can try again.

Removing the part and clamping on a bench should help improve your odds.