Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

When I put fuel in my recently purchased'41 120 club coupe for the first time, I discovered the fuel tank is leaking at the seam where the two halves of the tank are joined together.
On further inspection, it appears someone had tried to make repairs with fiberglass (?) and, perhaps some type of JB Weld compound.
The good news is the fuel in the tank runs clean from a bottom drain plug.

Does anyone have thoughts on a repair option (I am hopeful the fiberglass was simply installed over the seam, as the tank does not appear to be rusted out.

Alternatively, is there a viable option or source for a replacement fuel tank?

Additionally, the heat gauge goes to hot on idle and seems to ride high, even after a short drive on a cool day. Afterwards, I nearly always have coolant flow from the overflow hose on shutting down the engine.
An infra-red thermometer shows the block at about 200 F (approximately 10 degree variation front to back) and the radiator measures in the 180's.
Thoughts on where to start would be helpful, as I am just beginning to familiarize myself with this car.
Thanks,
Jim

I have just found the link to the overheating issues with the 1936 120. That provides some guidance on things to consider for my overheating issue.

They do make an epoxy for patching fuel tanks in place. It could be something similar. It should be able to patch a good clean metal. But better to have it professionally welded by someone that can safety weld gas tanks.

And if a home or local repair is not possible, perhaps you could find one of the Gas Tank Renu franchises reasonably close to you.

The only place I am aware of selling new tanks for some prewar Packards is MoparPro who offers them thru an ebay store. The repro tank prices look to be somewhat more expensive than the average repair prices people have reported with the Renu process and no idea if their 41 tank offering would fit your model. As I recall, a couple of their tanks have been bought and reports have been decent.

Hot issue, probably head gasket

Renu will basically butcher the tank by cutting a large opening at the top, sand blasting the interior through it while also patching any holes usually by brazing, then welding the hole shut before applying the sealing material. The end results are fine but the welded hole seams will always be there.

I personally prefer to use Hirsch Gas Tank sealer although their cleaners in my opinion do not do a good job so don't bother with the kit - get only the sealer. For my 1951 Henney-Packard's Swiss cheese tank, I used Ospho for the cleaning and etching which did an excellent job, then sealed it using the Hirsch product. Hirsch also offers an epoxy-like 2-part gas tank putty for patching on the car but by the sound of it, taking out the tank and sealing it properly whether by Renu or doing it yourself is a better choice.

In your post I'm assuming that the over heating issue on the 1936 120 was the one initiated my me. I just updated it with a cause - a failed thermostat.

On your leak - 1) if the leak is along a seam 2) the tank is clean, and 3) the area on seam where the leak is occurring I would try the two part epoxy like JB Weld again. You MUST make sure the metal is super clean. Get the fuel level low enough that there is no liquid at that level. Use a fine wire wire brush that can get down to the very bottom where the sections are clean. Push the epoxy down into the seam to ensure it get into the cracks.

I was successful in sealing a leak on my '51 where the fill spout was joined the tank. BTW I used PC-7 , which I already had from rebuilding the steering wheel on my '32.

Thank you for the advice, everyone.
I appreciate it.

I used POR 15 products on a tank with many pin holes and interior rust. Worked great and has held up well for about 10 years now.