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HPH, Didn't know there was such a word!
Learned something non-Packard,

The diagram posted seems odd but I’ve not looked much at my Clipper’s system either. I was unaware that vacuum lines ran to the control knob as I thought the valving was in the motor and controller by a cable as it is in my 1951-1954 Packards.

The vacuum lines to the knob assy is for the feature that is only on 55-6 models and is for the lever that changes the sweep arc. Some Packard advertising called it a super fast sweep for use in heavy conditions but what it does is cut the overall sweep distance across the windshield by about a third so in effect the blades do not have as far to go before reversing so they sweep faster.

They used vacuum instead of a cable for that control so moving the lever on the switch assy connects ports in the switch so vacuum is supplied or cut off to the port on the plate in front of the motor. Behind that plate is a small piston like assy which changes a piece in the mechanism that moves the click valve which controls when the blades reverse. When piece changes valve uses different ports so the motor paddle does not travel as far.

Just FYI, there is a service article on checking the hose positions at the switch because if reversed, one of the switch ports being open to air will cause a vacuum leak and faint hissing noise when lever is in the normal operating position..

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Coincidentally while looking for something unrelated, I found this photo online of a 1956 wiper switch which is the first I've ever seen out of the car. I guess it would have answered my question!

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The first images are of the vacuum lines I was concerned about. If I understand correctly the first image shows the metal line that runs to the top/rear of the head and only sticks up about an inch or so. That line runs to the wind washer motor.

The second image shows the metal T that comes out of the back of the carb. I have the Olds pump so its not needed. Do I need to block that off?

Got the headlights working today.
I am missing the small parts that connect the 2 pieces together.

The last image is of the engine breather. I want to put a paper filter in there. Does anyone have part number for one?

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With the Olds pump you will not have the aux pump in the crankcase so all the tubing on the side of the block between exhaust manifold and oil pan may be missing. Since you didn't mention the balance valve, that has probably been eliminated too. Your wiper motor and washer vacuum supply will start at the tee fitting at the back of the carb. The other port on the tee will be for the power brakes so you will need to leave that entire setup intact.

The revised tube routing depends on whether you have any kind of aux vacuum source such as a dual action fuel pump etc, If nothing, the short bent length of tubing from the back of the carb to firewall is all you have to run the wipers and washer. If you have an electric wiper conversion then you just need the rubber hose from the short end of the open metal tube to the washer but if you still have the vacuum wipers you will need a tee in the rubber hose so one line will feed the washer and the other feeds the wiper motor.

If you add an aux vacuum supply such as a dual action fuel pump then you could either keep it sort of stock looking by using the old crankcase tubing to the balance valve and connect that to the pump inlet or do it the pre 55 way by running extra metal tubing from the carb tee to place the vacuum section of the pump in series with the metal line to the firewall. It would be carb tee to pump outlet and pump inlet to wiper motor and washer. That method would no longer use the balance valve and would just need a tee for the wiper motor and washer.

Thanks for that Howard. I have not even looked at the wiper motor yet. Just trying to get it all on the road and then will work on that.

On another subject. I have one key for the whole car right now. It's for the ignition.

What is my best way forward here?

Can I order all new lock cylinders or can a local locksmith put something together with my cylinders?

Glovebox and trunk would use the octagonal head key, doors and ignition the round key.

New cylinders are available but replacing could get expensive. If you have several old cylinders a locksmith might be a good option and could probably mix and match or maybe cut from experience. If you have a cylinder marked with the key code many of the older shops should have a reference manual and could cut a key from the numbers. If no local shop can do it, there are online places such as Jesser's that can do the work.

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I just replaced all the locks on one of my cars by buying NOS tumblers for the doors and what I THOUGHT was NOS for the ignition and trunk. It turned out that the ignition and trunk set was for 1955 so I have it available with the original Packard keys on my site. For the door locks, the ones I bought were uncut so I had them keyed to an original by taking them to a locksmith.

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Any reputable locksmith can probably re-key your locks. I don't know what wafers were used specifically, but the cores are common to other types of cars. At they very least they should be able to make keys for them. Or you can DIY:youtube.com/watch?v=wdpoHrOsG04&pp=ygUQcGFja2FyZCBocGggbG9jaw%3D%3D

The instructions for disassembling the trunk lock are in the video. If all your locks are original, then you already have the door key, and then the trunk key will also be your glovebox key.