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« 1 (2)

Re: Steering Wheel Restoration
#11
Webmaster
Webmaster

BigKev
See User information
On my '54 wheel, I filed the cracks into a V shape with a dremel and then used a high-quality flexible body filler to fill them. Lost of sanding and shaping to get everything level and matching.

Then a couple of coats of quality automotive primer, and then single-stage urethane paint.

If your wheel is missing chunks, it may need to be sent out for recasting, or it may be cheaper to find a better wheel.

Posted on: 4/5 11:25
-BigKev


1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan -> Registry | Project Blog

1937 Packard 115-C Convertible Coupe -> Registry | Project Blog
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Re: Steering Wheel Restoration
#12
Forum Ambassador
Forum Ambassador

Ozstatman
See User information
G'day John M,
to PackardInfo.

I invite you to include your '32 902 Phaeton in PackardInfo's Packard Vehicle Registry.

And pleae keep us apprised as you restore your Packard. A great way to do so would be to start a Project Blog.

Posted on: 4/5 16:11
Mal
/o[]o\
====

Bowral, Southern Highlands of NSW, Australia
"Out of chaos comes order" - Nietzsche.

1938 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

1941 One-Twenty Club Coupe - SOLD

1948 Super Eight Limo, chassis RHD - SOLD

1950 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

What's this?
Put your Packard in the Packard Vehicle Registry!
Here's how!
Any questions - PM or email me at ozstatman@gmail.com
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Re: Steering Wheel Restoration
#13
Home away from home
Home away from home

Marty or Marston
See User information
I redid the steering wheel on my '32. Lots of cracks with were large areas where I needed to take it down to the steel rod. I used PC7 (a two part epoxy). I did 1/3 of the wheel at a time leaving a third of the wheel as a pattern. I sanded the steel when necessary to remove rust.

I found that when the 2 parts are mixed the material is stiff, but would slowly flow because gravity. My approach was to mix the material and wait an hour or hour or two (temperature dependent) and with disposable gloves I would apply to the wheel. I formed the indents for fingers following those on the "pattern". If it started to sag I reshape. I found that there is a point where the material could be shape using water moist hands to prevent it from sticking to fingers.

I left everything a little over size so it could be final sanded to correctness. Final shape of the finger grips were sanded. Second and third applications were made as necessary after sanding to fill voids or areas that needed it.

When completed it was primed and painted with a urethane enamel auto paint.

Posted on: 4/7 3:32
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