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If the drum has not been off for a long time it can take a considerable amount of time for it to release. I had one take a couple of days. A bit of carefully applied but relatively gentle heat from a propane torch evenly worked around the hub may help expand it a tiny amount and hasten release.

Thanks Howard. The drums came off easily 2 years ago when I re-did all the brakes. I had properly torqued the axle nut after doing the brakes 2 years ago, so I guess that is why it is not coming apart so easily. Good idea with the propane torch.

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Like Howard I had to use heat on two different cars. One took several days to pop. Maxed out the impact guns, and beat the dogbone with a sledge until I was tired. I let it sit a day or two, hitting it with heat now and then, and eventually got it. But that drum had probably not been off in many decades. Yours will probably pop once you are able to bang on it without bothering neighbors.

That's why the dog bone style ones are easier, as the impact of hammer and the rotational tightening an the same time is what quickly breaks loose the interference fit on the axle taper.

I've never had one take more than 10 mins to come off. The ones on 54 had not been touched in at least 25 years.

Recently I started using an impact wrench on the puller which seems to get it apart very quickly and with little effort. Although I have a couple powerful pneumatic types, lately I’ve found that even my Ryobi rechargeable one works just as well when switched to the highest level.

I didn't want to make a racket hammering on sunday or monday since it was a holiday, but today I mounted a tire on one side of the rear axle, and lowered the rear axle so one wheel was touching the ground. Then with the puller attached to the other side, a few good wacks with a BFH....Both rear drums came off with a pop. Good thing the nut was still on there! Gear oil started running out the axle ends when I pulled the drums, so those seals were really shot. The brake pads did not get contaminated, so I will check the condition of the bearings and races before I order, but I think I will most likely replace the bearings while I am here. Local prices on those bearings are about what Kanter gets for them, so I may just make a call and have them sent from NJ. Easier than trying to hunt them down in Germany.

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Presumably you hit only the drive bar to rotate it rather than hitting the end. Hitting the end can damage the rear end’s preload.

Right Don, I only applied my might to the rotational ends of the drive bar thingy. I was only swinging the hammer up and down, no side-to-side hammering. When I re-assemble everything I will have to check the side to side end-play and shim accordingly. I wasn't planning on doing anything with the preload on the differential.

This is familiar! I had to pull an axle for inspection on my 47 Clipper. To find a forged puller I had to go to Ebay and buy a vintage puller. I took the wheel off and attached the puller being careful to put the nut back onto the axle so the contraption would not sail through my garage wall or ME!
I did a few whacks on the puller arm and walked away. I did this several times during the day until I heard a gratifying POP!
The outcome was the axle was fine and it was reinstalled as it was obvious the inner seals were fine.

My daughter helped me remove the brakes, axle shafts, bearing races and seals. I took the brake backing plates to get powder coated, so they will look nice going back in. Great father daughter time, and Amy learned how to do some wrenchin' and use a slide hammer.

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