Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Hi all I’m new here but I’m hoping there is someone here who has possibly run into this issue before

I just replaced the generator in a 53 clipper and re did the wiring from generator to regulator and a new ground for the generator. It works great and charges the battery while the engine is running but for some reason now after I shut the car off the battery light turns on even after I pull the key out. Anybody have any idea what might be the cause of this? It never did it before I replaced the generator and old wiring

Thanks!

G'day Nate,
to PackardInfo, but sorry I can't help with your query.

Instead, I invite you to include your '53 Clipper in PaxkardInfo's Packard Vehicle Registry.

Maybe your cutout relay is stuck closed?

Usually they are adjustable (read the service manual) or you might just want to buy a new regulator as well.

Service manuals in the literature section to the left.

Check this schematic.
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/wirediagrams/1953%2026th%20Series.pdf
Not sure which regulator you have, this will show you both.
You have something hooked up wrong, damned if i can remember exactly what it is.
I have seen this multiple times on many different vehicles.

Here is a simplified drawing of the BAT light circuit. The wire runs noted in red type correspond to the 26th series wiring diagram Two-bit linked in his post above. The main wires concerned are noted but there are a couple of splices where wire colors change that are not drawn. For those points you will need to refer to the main diagram. Obviously you do not have the ammeter and its connecting wires as shown in the drawing. That bit is replaced by the main battery cable which goes straight to the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid BAT terminal where the battery cable connects along with 1R and 2RG is not shown but would be at the tee junction in the drawing where the 3 wires come together.

The circuit operates as follows: When key is turned on and engine is off the bulb gets full battery voltage on one side and ground thru the generator armature coils on the other side so it will light. When the engine starts and the generator starts putting out a voltage on A the light will go out because the voltage from the generator goes to the regulator at A and causes the cutout relay to close so the same voltage will also be at B on the regulator. The same voltage will now be on both sides of the bulb and no current flow can happen so bulb cannot light.

When the generator slows or some fault causes the generator output voltage to drop, at some point it drops below the cutout relay set point so cutout opens. Depending on how much voltage the generator is producing there will be the higher voltage on one side of the bulb directly from the battery and a smaller voltage on the generator side so a bit of current will flow. The light will be dim or if the cutout relay opens and closes because the generator is producing a voltage very near the cutout pull in set point it will flicker.

To have the bulb lighting at full brightness when the key is off means somehow the bulb is getting voltage from an incorrect place because the ign switch is apparently not opening the normal path which should be from the battery via 21RW thru the switch and out GA to the bulb.

I agree; the "dash" side of the bulb should be a switched source, but it sounds like it was wired to a constant source instead.

Perhaps you have something connected to an incorrect terminal on the ignition switch.

Kev brings up a good point about a possible ign sw miswire. If you have the original Packard switch the terminals are A, GA, and COIL. If the switch has been replaced there may be a different terminology. A is the same as BAT on later switches and is battery input. GA is the same as ACC on later switches and is where almost everything out connects and COIL is the same as IGN in modern terminology.

GA or ACC is powered when the key is in either right or left on position while COIL or IGN is only powered if the switch is at the right or run position. In good practice that terminal should only have the coil connected to it otherwise voltage draw thru too many items or feedback under certain conditions could be enough to affect power to the coil and cause issues or prevent the engine from stopping when the key is turned off to stop the engine.

Okay thanks everyone! I’ll have to look into it and see where I might’ve miswired something

Just to clarify that when you replaced the generator it was with another generator and not an alternator conversion like many have done?

Yes it was replaced with a 6v generator. I ran new wires from F and A terminals to the regulator and a ground wire direct from the positive terminal on battery to B terminal on generator. I didn’t change any of the wiring on the B terminal on the regulator as from my understanding it has a seperate circuit than the B terminal on generator. I get 7.6v at battery when it’s running and charge light turns off it’s just when I turn the car off the charge light comes on