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Thanks, Bob.

One follow up question….can you elaborate on what you used to “scrape” the paint off?

For doing text on the switch bezels, I paint it with $1 black craft paint, then after it is just barely dry (not shiny), I rub off the excess with my thumb. Perhaps something similar would work here with the sponge side of a dish sponge or something.

The panels are all quite large, so I found to do it like you indicated Pgh is not workable on them as there is also very little left in the grooves after you take away the top paint, and if the paint is still in its 'plastic' stage it drags paint from inside the grooves along with the paint from the rail tops leaving shiny gaps in the grooves. Whereas once it is good and dry it separates easier along the top surface.
I used a razor blade, but you could also use a blade from a box cutter. You may have to snap it so it fits better inside the working area.
The paint does not adhere very well to the chrome so it comes off quite easily. The pressure required is no where near the pressure required to mar the finish of the chrome either.
Bob J.

Thanks, Bob!

Kathy and I stopped by the shop to see my car. It’s coming along.












For a bit of irony….previously, every shop I had talked to said that new fenders would be the way to go. At least for the driver’s side, this shop feels like repairing my original fender is the best way to go. The passenger side is still TBD as it had work done on it back in the 1960s and the ridge was rounded over.




This is my “new” trunk lid. It’s getting stripped down and quite a bit of bondo being removed to straighten out the sheet metal. It’s still FAR better than my original that was smashed in pretty bad.




Passenger side rear fender….rust removal. This is the front edge of the rear fender where it bolts to the running board.







This is the rear of the rear fender. It had a repair done at some point before Dad bought the car in 1960. The part that was cut out weighed about 5lbs due to all the lead.