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As a 1956, your car has negative ground so is it possible that something in the charging system is from a 1955 or otherwise has reversed connections?

Next time you are under verify nothing electrical happened to cause the compensator to drive so long as to change the transverse bar positions far enough to become reversed. If that happens, assuming nothing got damaged in the process, everything will be out of sync mechanically. What the control switch might want as a very slight level change in one direction will become a big movement the opposite way because the correction direction called for is mechanically wrong and instead of correcting the slight out of level condition it keeps making it worse. This can happen if something shorts or more often, when someone manually tries to move the suspension either without watching the compensator if jumping terminals or when the limit switches were bypassed because of an incorrect installation of a manual switch.

This is a birds eye view from above. Verify the short transverse bar going to the drivers side is at the front of the compensator and the long bar to the passenger side is at the rear. The slight open angle of the V shape at the compensator drive link should point to the passenger side. If bars are reversed you will need to CAREFULLY manually control things while you watch and drive them back around to normal.

Howard, all good under the car. The bars are fine and the TL works as normal when stopped. It was just odd how it immediately raised the rear up when driving when I flipped the switch. Not sure if anyone else has had this happen with worn bushings or not.

Take 2 seconds and remove the generator belt from the generator. Then take an alligator clip jumper and connect arm [Edit: chassis ground] to field on the generator. Then take a jumper cable or at least 16 awg cable and connect bat on the regulator to arm on the generator. You should see the generator quickly get up to speed and spin the same direction as the engine spins (CW from front).

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This did not appear to be the case in your 2/8 video.
Since then you have accessed all of the brakes. Are the front wheel bearings properly set? Are the lug nuts properly tightened?
Earlier you said "1.) Power steering looks to be the source of most of the drips on the ground. The cylinder was rebuilt and it looks like some hoses were replaced. Not sure which are new and which are not. But it seems like it's leaking from most, if not all, of the line connections. I went through and tightened all of them up, cleaned off the drips, and will see if that does anything. But some hose replacements might be in my future." Did you check the fluid level?

Several tests:
1. Driving down a flat level road, let go of the steering wheel. What happens?
2. Driving down a crowned road, let go of the steering wheel. What happens?
3. Driving down a flat level road, let go of the steering wheel then apply the brakes. What happens?
4. Driving in reverse on a flat level road, let go of the steering wheel. What happens?

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So now the levelizer is raising the rear of the car.
If So:
1. Does it raise to the upper limit?
2. Is the delay approximately zero?
3. Does it go back to level when in N and P?
It may be time to retest the control box.