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Re: Ultramatic Direct Drive
#11
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Owen_Dyneto
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True enough, but that deceleration test doesn't assure you that the DD stays engaged when you now add power back.

Posted on: 3/21 18:46
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Re: Ultramatic Direct Drive
#12
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Pgh Ultramatic
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Quote:

Owen_Dyneto wrote:
True enough, but that deceleration test doesn't assure you that the DD stays engaged when you now add power back.


Why not, aside from the drop in speed?

Posted on: 3/21 19:32
1955 400 | Registry | Project Blog
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Email (Parts/service inquiries only, please. Post all questions on the forum.)
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Re: Ultramatic Direct Drive
#13
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paulsPackard
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OK it was a battle with the Packard on Saturday.... I took the radiator out and flushed it, and had a rebuilt water pump to install... This will allow me to drive the car and really test the transmission, I guess the front motor mount has sagged, because i had to really jack up on the front of the engine to get the water pump bolts to clear the front engine cradle. I installed the new pump and it leaks like crazy at the bottom, i can only figure that some of the old motor mount rubber got in between the pump and the block... Anyone seen this issue... Packard 27 Paul 0.... Thanks

Posted on: 3/24 5:56
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Re: Ultramatic Direct Drive
#14
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kevinpackard
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Do the lower mounting bolts go into the water jacket? If so they need to have sealant on them or it will for sure leak. I haven't had a water pump off on these engines so I couldn't tell you if the bolts go into the water jacket or not.

Posted on: 3/24 11:53
Kevin

1954 Clipper Super Panama "Van Halen" | Registry | Project Blog
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1956 Packard The Four Hundred "Tanner" | Registry | Project Blog
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Re: Ultramatic Direct Drive
#15
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HH56
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There are holes that go straight thru into the water jacket so in addition to sealant (which is always a good idea), as I recall there are a couple of spots that might be those lower down on the pump that need a copper sealing washer under the bolt head. Those locations may have a smooth almost machined finish when compared to other bolt locations. If you can't see any difference in finish then presume those that are leaking are the spots needing sealing washers. Hopefully you didn't use a lockwasher directly against the pump that could have gouged the smooth surface but if you did then use a bit of sealant under the copper washer and under the bolt head as well as on the threads.

It would also be a good idea to change the rubber in the motor mount while everything is apart. Steele and probably the vendors should have the two pieces.

Posted on: 3/24 12:06
Howard
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Re: Ultramatic Direct Drive
#16
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paulsPackard
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ok i solved the water pump mystery.. apparently after 50 years of working on cars, i dont know how to install a gasket.... At least its not leaking now.
Click to see original Image in a new window

Posted on: 3/25 5:30
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Re: Ultramatic Direct Drive
#17
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paulsPackard
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OK now for progress... I have fixed the motor mount, the water pump gasket, rebuilt the fuel pump, distributor bushings, new vacuum advance... I drove the car for about 50 miles on back roads this weekend, other than 1 noisy lifter the car ran perfectly... But i can say for sure the direct clutch NEVER does anything.. it drives just like the 50 Buick Dynaflow.. albeit, it has a much more efficient torque converter, and more power overall... I am thinking the governor is stuck.. the car sat up since 1974.... i am hoping i can take the governor out and clean it with out much trouble, is there any special tips for the governor removal, cleaning reinstall i need to know about??? Thanks Paul

Posted on: 4/8 7:35
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Re: Ultramatic Direct Drive
#18
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BigKev
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Or it has worn bushings that are leaking enough to prevent the DD lock up.

Ask me how I know!

Posted on: 4/8 7:49
-BigKev


1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan -> Registry | Project Blog

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Re: Ultramatic Direct Drive
#19
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Pgh Ultramatic
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There is a threaded rod linkage attached to the carb going to the transmission. Note the current position with a marker. Adjust it so that the rod is moved as far forward as possible without the mechanism losing its range of motion between idle and full throttle. This will set the throttle pressure very low. Test drive the car moderately and you should feel the clutch be engaged above about 20 MPH. The clutch may slip a bit from the clumsy pressure adjustment. If this is what happens, you then only need to fine tune your adjustment (moving the rod back) to set the clutch engagement to your liking. But if you can't get it to not slip objectionably even with a higher engagement speed setting, then the clutch itself needs to be replaced with a relined one. I have these for sale at a discount price.

If you still don't feel the clutch engage at any speed, then we will investigate the governor or other internal parts.

Posted on: 4/8 7:52
1955 400 | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Deluxe | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Super Panama | Registry
Email (Parts/service inquiries only, please. Post all questions on the forum.)
service@ultramatic.info
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Re: Ultramatic Direct Drive
#20
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53 Cavalier
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What speed did you get up to? If the throttle valve, the adjustment PGH is referring to, was not correct and staying open/not allowing the DD to engage, the governor should override it at higher speeds. I think at about 50 mph.

When you drained the ATF, how did it look? I would be more inclined to think something is out of adjustment, or worn, rather than dirty/sticky.

Is there anyone around still that you can ask about the car? Maybe the transmission is the reason it was parked in the first place?

How many miles on the car? Maybe the Ultramatic needs a rebuild? I'm planning to pull min out at some point, just haven't got to that point.

Maybe the DD is working, but the clutch is just worn out so not holding?

I have lots of thoughts and ideas, but PGH is your guy for this one!

Posted on: 4/8 9:40
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