Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Once again needing to drink from the well of knowledge...ok...a little dramatic maybe but: I am taking my 55 400 to the shop in a couple of weeks to get the TLS suspension bushings replaced all around. A few other minor things while there but I would like to swap out the valve covers and manifold after fresh, high temp heat tolerant paint is applied and the Packard embossed valve covers painted as original two tom black/white. Trying to get all of that painted so they just have to remove old and reinstall new. Should be straighforward with all new gaskets provided. But....and pardon my ignorance here, there is a stainless tube, (painted) coming out of the drivers side cross over exhaust portion (mid section) and reaching around to opposite side where it attaches to the carburetor. Looking at the point where it leaves the manifold, not sure what it might take to remove it and reinstall. Pretty sure the new manifold will not have that in place. Would not want to get to that point and have a major issue with the removal and reinstallation..Any ideas, suggestions, insights for working thru that

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That tube provides the heat source for the automatic choke and conveys the hot air needed for it to operate. The carb end has a compression nut to a fitting at the choke while the manifold end should be snug but is just a slide in fit with about 1/2 inch of the tube going into the end of a slightly larger tube that is actually pressed into the manifold. The tubes are both steel so there is a possibility they have rusted together. If so there can be some real grief in getting it to pull out. Normally after disconnecting the carb end the tube will be removable with just a twist and tug.

Howard is not wrong but I doubt your tube will want to come out easily. If not, just replace the tube with something of equal OD and reuse the carb nut.

I would suggest soldering it in to get it to stay if needed. It's not really a service item. Then paint.

Okay...At least I have an idea of how the tube attaches. Compression nut no problem. I will start treating the "press fit" end with some good penetrant, drive the car getting things heated up. and start working it loose. I have two weeks. Just didn't want to get it to the shop and get that phone call after everything else was done :(

I've had good luck with mine coming out but PGH Ultra is correct in that they can be a pain to remove. One thing to double check on the manifolds is the condition of the tube pressed into the manifold. That is the actual "stove" and is a special tube with a crimped opening on the far end which sticks out in the air under the manifold. The crimp is designed to close the tube to limit air flow so the specific amount that does get thru has a chance to be heated. The tube is in direct contact with exhaust gases which can corrode the tube to the point holes develop in the tube. That is not good because then the choke sucks the exhaust gases up which then damages the internal parts of the choke. Make sure your new manifold tube is in good condition before it is installed.




One other thing I noticed on the photos you posted is the carb linkage looks like there is soot on it. It could just be optical delusion or a dirty carb piece but another thing is the end of the removable tube just before it goes into the manifold tube has two dots which could also be an illusion but looks like holes. If in fact they are holes then they should not be there and that tube will need to be repaired or replaced. If soot is present the stove is allowing exhaust to enter and as mentioned, that is not good for the choke mechanism
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Would just point out that unless some stunning new chemical miracle has transpired your new freshly painted manifold will turn brown at the crossover point in very short order if you drive the car at all.

Thank you, Howard, Ross and Pgh. Most of the mystery is gone thanks to the above replies.
Howard, you have keen eyes to pick out that pin hole. It came into my hands with that portion of the tube painted...probably to cover up the pitting that becomes obvious (now that has been pointed out ...thats why I had to get out of the snake raising business LOL) I wiped across the linkage and no soot came off so likely just oxidation there. That said, there could be internal issues with the "stove pipe". Hope the replacement will be in good condition there. I attached the high resolution photo which shows (too much) detail better. will clean up the paint a bit:(
Pgh Knowing how it attached saved a lot of heartache. I treated it with Ballistol (german for gun oil) last night and pulled it out with my fingers this AM. good stuff!!
I will replace that tube, might have one made up if the Parts r Us place doesnt have one.
Ross, I originally thought I would cerakote the new manifold but was getting mixed reviews on heat entrapment etc. I dont understand that technology but also dont wish to cause any additional problems. Though the car isnt perfect, I do local car shows with it and have brought home some hardware, not because it is a 9-10 in restoration ( preservation) but because its "the only girl at the dance" and gets a lot of attention! Just trying to dress up the engine compartment. I'm open to suggestions. Thanks again for all of the invaluable information....now...where was that snake?

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I used Kroil and mine came out easily.

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I used Cerakote on my exhaust manifolds and they are like it was just done. If they had the right color I probably would have done the intake manifold.

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Try Classic Tube first and if they don't have a pattern, send them yours to add to their catalog. That way, others along the way can just order one as needed. They are super-fast and can have a new one to you quickly. Personally I would have it made in stainless. (Don't rely on their online catalog as those are rarely up to date. Call or email to ask them if they have it.)

Don,
Thats great information. Unfortunately sort of, I had just ordered a 1/4" steel fuel tank standpipe from "TruckLiners". Made in USA and $21.00. What sold me was it already had the sharp 90 degree bend that goes in the stove pipe opening. I believe I can "massage" the larger radius bends and then flare the end. The one I have may have been replaced in similar fashion as it has 6 bends that looks like someone may have been trying to use up some length from one end to the other. Getting closer....