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What radiator did you finally use?

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Hi, see attachment here:packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... 5042&post_id=273363#forumpost273363

Note that I haven't tested it yet. Also, during the winter, I managed to pick up two good original radiators (one recored), so I will have a backup if there is some problem.

Thanks

Have 2 got in 90s...

Packards are thicker..

Probably going to reuse packards.

Thinking of fiberglassing the the broken clip holes.

Someone just decided to glue the new armrest upholstery over the old... 🤔

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Picked up 4 "new" tires today courtesy of CarFreak. Date code 2010, but they look good as new. Satisfactory for a low speed cruiser. Previously were supporting a Caribbean. Will probably max the air pressure as I have manual steering. 235/75 R15.

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Those should clean up nicely. I'm curious to see if you have any issues getting the rear to fit. I currently have old school bias ply on mine and the rears are a bear to get on and off. I have to deflate the tires usually, and even then it's a struggle. I think part of it is the new shocks I have, the rear axle doesn't hang as low.

I worry that whitewalls would get damaged trying to get them in and out. And the 235/75 tires are pretty wide too.

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While there is said to be no hard and fast DOT rule specifying a cut off age, unless your major chain shops in PA or on the East coast in general work under a different set of rules, I suggest you go to an independent to have them mounted and probably one catering to those in poorer neighborhoods that sell used tires with no questions asked.

Out here none of the major tire stores will mount anything over 10 years old and will send you elsewhere saying their insurance forbids mounting that old a tire even as something that is just to be able to roll the car around in a shop. There is one major that even prefers newer than that and will sick the top salesman on you with tales saying how dangerous even that 10 year old tire will be.

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They should clean up okay. I had to raise the rear of the car as much as possible via the suspension and deflate the tires to get them off. I have also found (since I don't have a lift) lift the car up by the rear axle but put the jack stands under the frame in front of the axle. That will allow the axle to drop down just a tad bit more when you release some pressure from the hydraulic jack.

These weren't too bad to get off, I think the new white walls I got will be a little bit more of a struggle to get on

This weekend I pulled and inspected the brake drums on my parts car. (Technically I pulled one already last year.) Turns out that they were all in nearly new condition! The drums on this car are actually almost new as well, though the previous brake shoes used had a groove in the middle causing a slight wear pattern, so I decided to swap them for the set off my parts car, instead of getting the existing drums turned.

Last year when attempting to set the rear axle endplay I ran into a problem that I quickly traced to that I was using grease seals (334929) that were too thick. I also realized that I was placing my shims on the wrong side of the brake backing plate, though it doesn't make too much of a difference. It's noted in the service manual in one sentence that's easy to miss. I added the correct seal to the X-ref when I bought them last year.

So I got the endplay set properly and the brakes/wheels are basically ready to go. I need to charge the brake system and get the new tires on. Fill the diff, transmission, and engine oils. Bolt the engine in place and set the linkages. Install the driveshaft. Attach the front clip and wiring connections. Should basically be good to go after these steps...

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If there are incorrect seals in the cross reference, please let me know so that I can delete them.