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I think you are coming down the home streach.Seems you are related to Murphy (As in murphys law. (I am too.))I also suffer from what I call the "glee" factor.(Too much excitement at the end of a project.) That is of course when I make a simple mistake and it takes me forever to back track to that spot.In my case the glee factor normally bites me with some thing silly I have overlooked,Or put in wrong.Beware! Brian

Broken coil wire sure would cause problems, but if the issue still there after replacing & you have an ohm meter, I would disconnect the coil and put one lead on that terminal and the other lead to ground. Move the points and see if the continuity changes. If it does and things are adjusted reasonably close, then work you've done is probably not the issue. If the continuity stays, then start disconnecting one wire or component at a time and see what is staying grounded. If continuity is open and stays that way then look for open connection or stationary side not grounded or somehow something not connecting to that terminal.

Thanks Brian and thanks HH good point..lets go back to this coil wire from today.

this has a male end that screws into the coil with a wire running through it. I just wonder if it's supposed to be that way and you jam it back into the rubber cable??

I say that because on my 28 distributor cap two peices top and bottom it has spikes you lay your cables onto the bottom of the cap and scrw in the top postion and the spikes in the top portion pierce the cables making contact

your thoughts..maybe this is the same principle.

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sanford,

This look like the correct lead hook-up. You might want to route the wire from the connector to the point set away from the point contacts.

Don't forget to put a drop of light oil on the felt at the top of the rotor shaft.

Don't forget to put grease in the screw grease cup on the outside of the distributor.

Also, a slight coating of high temperature grease on the cam lobe will help the points last longer. It only takes a very small amount to do the job.

It also looks like your coil's high tension lead is the same as on my Delco equipped 1937 Six. Make sure the coil where the high tension lead goes in is clean. It may have become corroded with the bad connection.

Setting the ignition timing on these cars is not easy. The timing marks are on the flywheel and can be viewed through a port under the starter.

The best way to do this is to jack up the front of the car, remove the left front wheel and fender inner liner. With this done the timing marks can be easily seen. It is a PITA.

I made a pointer out of wire that I fastened to the timing chain cover and then marked the crankshaft vibration damper with timing marks to more easily check and set the timing.

Good luck.

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John,

Must be deja vu, see my recent post, edited version below, or click on the link to see the full post with pic's attached.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=2179&start=251
Quote:

Mal, I too thought the timing (pardon the pun) of having timing marks on the vibration damper on your blog and my reply on this thread was curious. I was just about to post a note here directing those interested to see your blog. I used a coat hanger wire, but your bracket is much more elegant. Good job!

com' on honey?? cant you please give me just a ittle bit of fire..please..pretty please..Haven't I pampered you enough during the years?? new tires, frequent oil changes. couple of new batteries..Please sweetheart??

...........NO !!!!

Sounds like life at home doesnt it??? hahahahah

okay..heading to Illinois today..be back on Tuesday.
gotta be something simple..still no firing..Its gotta be something simple..note I have never removed distri. Charging battery now ...from the cranking its regiestering 'fair'.

to recheck all my work again on tuesday..
to recap.
new points set at .015
new condensor
new cap
new rotor.
new coil wire(made myself)

hope i have distr. wires attached on cap in right sequence
8 o clock # 1
6 o clock # 5
4 o clock # 3
2 o clock # 6
12 o clock # 2
10 o clock # 4

Tell ya I got firing order etched in my 'brain' 153624

Looking at the picture of the coil wire connection I will say that it's not right. The coil wire should be stripped back so that the bare wire sticks through about 1/8 to 3/16 and then bent over the brass, when screwed into the coil or distributor you will have a solid contact.

John

I hate to be redundant.But you have also as yet proved you have spark in the cylinders.Just because the plugs fired outside the cylinder doesn't mean it will inside.It takes more energy to jump gap under pressure.Or did you do so and I missed it? Brian

thanks Brian..how do you test that once again?? will do that when i return from Springfield Illinois
san