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Quote:

Kev, I don't recall if we ever came to agreement on oil filter line connections on that loooong thread we had several months ago, but here is my conclusion.

There are two ways oil filters on these engines are connected and it depends on whether they have mechanical or hydralic valve lifters. The mechanical lifter engines use the "series" connection. That is from a port in the block to the filter inlet and from the filter outlet to another port in the block.

I believe your engine is the 327 with hydraulic lifters. These engines require the filter to be connected in the "by-pass" mode so as to have enough pressure and flow to the lifters.

Also, both connections require a restriction somewhere either in a line fitting or a design feature in the filter itself. This is important to maintain pressure and flow rate to the engine.

This "by-pass" type of filter only filters a small portion of the oil at a time, but over time all oil circulated through it. This is different than the "full-flow" type where oil goes from the pump through the filter first before doing its job in the rest of the engine.

We still get questions on this subject, maybe this will help to keep it fresh in reader's recall. Better late than never.

(o{I}o)

Edit: Okay to connect the filter on a mechanical lifter engine in "by-pass" mode, but not okay to connect a hydraulic lifter engine in "series mode".

Thanks JW for bringing this up again and expressing it so well. All to often I see oil filters installed incorrectly on cars that didn't come with one and that have been retrofitted by an owner without an appreciation for the details.

Quote:

Excellent summary. Thanks.

Also agree, excellent summary but there is one small gotcha to the general rule that should be stressed if someone tries to add a filter without checking or knowing engines.

Postwar, there were 2 filters listed as accessory prior to 24th series--one for six and one for eight, believe main difference is tubing. SC Vol22-14 and probably any other install instructions show these as installed in full flow with the short jumper removed -- as would be proper because the hydraulic engines came standard with filter and are in bypass.

The rub comes 24th series and after. Only one filter listed and is plumbed in bypass with the return tube dumping into crankcase no matter which engine. As the return hole is somewhat low and possibly covered in grease, someone trying to add a filter--maybe off an older parts car or older NOS kit and not investigating could easily follow the old instructions or use the same tubing to install the way it came off the parts car and plumb as full flow in the hydraulic engines. Very easy to do as believe all the postwar filters fit and pretty much look the same--As mentioned, not a good idea.

My 327 is a Solid lifter motor. M3XXXX are solid lifters 327 motors, M4XXXX are hydraulic lifter 327s. Now my looking at the model number of my filter, it was actually off a pre-war Packard. It has the inlet on the bottom, and the outlet on the top. But I plumed in the other way.

Here is what it looked like, and what it is now. So should I need to put some type of restrictor in the feed to the filter?

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Is your "tee" fitting off the shelf or Packard? If Packard, it may already have a restriction. There is usually one opening on one end or middle depending on model about 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the others if restricted.

If memory serves, the filters have a few small holes in the pipe that feeds from the bottom opening to the center of filter and that should provide a restriction. With it plumbed the other way around, more surface area on the filter is available so theoretically more flow. You still have to go out those same small holes however, so also in theory should provide the same restriction. As long as you have good pressure and solid lifters, IMHO nothing more needs to be done although there is the question about the holes being there.

Howard, I believe it is just a normal off the shelf "Tee". All the orifices appeared to be the same size.

On the carb, do you have to pull the carb off the motor to set the fast idle adjustment? From the description, it looks like the I would be measuring the open spacing from the throttle butterfly to the bore sidewall. The illustration shows this measurement be done from the bottom side carb.

Kev, will leave to a carb expert for the absolute answer and maybe a better way to adjust but to my mind, using the procedure given if there is nothing obstructing a fairly straight shot you could go to hobby store and pick up a piece of .020 straight music wire about a foot long. Maybe a slight bend or two if not a straight shot but stick it down the top and make the adjustment. Think that would work the same except the wire would be on top instead of bottom.

A #76 drill bit could also be used if securely attached to something but would be afraid it would loosen and drop and probably be hard to find--both in manifold if dropped and in store to buy--although good hobby store might have as well as lots of those small sizes are used in model airplane work.

Kev,
Don't know about your carb but the 4 barrel carb has two adjustments on bell crank, one for setting idle on cold engine and other for after warmed up. I set cold setting with engine running and choke closed at specified clearance, make sure not to let choke open while setting. After warm up open choke and perform other setting. I find a 1/4" drive socket with flexible screwdriver type handle works great as 4B has hex head adjuster.
Bill

Ok got the carb dialed in where I think it should be at. The was a tiny spring in the rear of the Thermo housing in the far back of the carb that wasn't catching the cam. After bending the spring leg to make it catch correctly, everything else finally adjusted where it is supposed to be. I actually had to increase to idle as it was idling too low.

With the carb bolted back on, I reinstalled the air cleaner. Still need to find a paper element that will fit inside the oil bath cleaner.

Next I went ahead and bent up new vacuum lines. I used the old lines as templates and referred to pictures I took at the time of disassemble to help in reinstallation.

With the motor running I am getting about 25hg of vacuum at the wiper port on the fuel pump, and it holds that vacuum when I shut the motor off.

With the new lines ran and checked, I went ahead and finally bolted the fuel pump heat-shield in place.

I checked the vacuum wiper motor and even after oiling per the STB, it is still not functionally and I can hear it leaking vacuum. So if I plan on using it, then i will have to sent it off to Flicken for a rebuild. Currently I just plugged that vacuum line until needed.

I also replaced the oil sender with the replacement I ordered from Summit. It's slightly smaller in overall size that the original, but works perfectly. I used a test light to very it was working. With the ignition on, the light turns on, as soon as the motor starts the light turns out. This switch has a 20psi turn off rating.

The next big project is getting the front fenders stripped and into basic primer. Then painting the insides of the black so they can go back on the car. Also along with that will be pulling the dash to start the harness replacement. As much as the tangle of alligator clips are working to start the motor, I really need to get the wiring process started.